Mold is throughout the car. The guy I bought it from told me that one of the windows had been broken out for a month or so without it being covered.
Oh, okay. Sounds like a fun clean-up job
I would recommend checking the hinge drains anyways...basically, at the bottom of the area that the hood hinges fold into when the hood's closed. Also, one help is that the "main" floor carpet is easily removable. The carpet in each footwell is similar to a large floor mat, with insulation/filler underneath the carpet itself. There should be two snaps at the rear of each piece (on the fronts, they may be partially covered by the seat)...you can unsnap them and remove them, exposing the metal/sound deadening underneath. Makes them a LOT easier to clean! And, you can clean any mold underneath as well.
I figured on just removing it and beating it back out.
That might work, but the metal isn't all that strong, so you could also bust a hole in it. While the pan's off, I'd check the oil pickup tube as well.
Both drivers side are dead. No noise at all. The switches seem real sticky so I might just start with giving them a good cleaning.
You may well be right. Good news is, the switches are pretty easy to disassemble...and, with where they're located, it's not unheard of to spill stuff (water, soda, etc) onto the center console where it would easily go into and gum up the switches. They're not all that expensive to replace, either.
Looks to me like the injector itself. Down close to the head where the injector goes into the head its wet and a bit of bubbling while its running.
Oh, okay...it's also possible that someone pulled the injectors and put them back on without the washers in place (M-B calls them "
heat shields", but they serve the same purpose as the copper washers under the injectors on the Ford IDI's). But, can't hurt to
rebuild or even replace the injectors.
I think its idling about 650-700RPM Seems just a tad on the low side. First project on it is the valves and checkout the timing chain. Wheres a good place to get a new chain if I need it? I assume I would want to change the gears also?
IIRC, she should be idling at about 750. But, I'd do the valve adjust and the timing chain before messing with the idle...she could be idling low because of another issue as opposed to simply being set too low. I would adjust the valves and check the timing chain stretch first, and then do the timing chain (if the engine needs it), then the injectors, and then
check the injection timing, then adjust the
rack damper bolt, adjust the idle speed, and then finally replace the engine mounts. There are two rubber mounts and two shock absorbers; I'd just replace them all to be safe.
I'd recommend spending some quality time on
this site...it's a great source for parts. Regarding the chain, you actually can (and should) replace the chain without even pulling the gears. For a more detailed how-to, take a look
here. I'd also recommend taking a look at
this site. For the record, there's also a message forum on Mercedes Shop, but IMHO the quality of the forum's taken a serious downturn...I used to be a regular, but I stopped going there about 3 years ago...
Great help. I can't beleive how big this car is. It doesn't look that big until I got it in the shop and see how much room it takes up.
I hear that!! IMHO the 126 is a beautiful car; I wish I had bought one instead of the 123 I used to own. I'd like to buy a cherry 126 someday, but probably not in the near future
Anyone know much about adjusting transmission bands in these cars? That will most likely be needing done before I start driving it too.
I'm not sure on the others, but
here is a how-to on adjusting the Reverse band. I need to do this on my car; I don't have Reverse at all anymore...
