Clutch Issues

[Ramprat]

How do you know when you're clutch is starting to go south on ya???

The 97PSD's clutch is starting to "jump" and "chater" more and make funny sounds that are making me wonder if it's getting ready to die.

Only have 76,300 ish miles on her but lately all the miles have been hard use in town stop and go & not many highway miles.

 

[jvencius]

That sounds like the clutch on its way out to me. Have you noticed having to let off the clutch slower when you get moving from a stoplight? When mine started to get worn (before the Ford dealer in Minot bought me a new one for free), I had to slip the clutch a bit more to get moving.

 

[geonc]

Is that the orig clutch/flywheel......with 76k odd miles on a '97

Has the sound changed when you shut it off.......kinda like something wants to make another turn or two......could be the dual mass flywhell starting to go.....

 

[rebel_horseman]

I just changed out my clutch about 3 months ago. I knew my clutch was going south becasue when I'd roll into the go-pedal the RPM's would climb much higher than the speed did. I replaced my factory clutch with a ceramic 4-puck Spicer-style clutch that is sticky as hell from a start and chatters away like I've got a ball bearing in my bellhousing. I hate starting off from a light because it's jerky but it holds the power quite nicely. Plus it was way less than a Luk/Centerforce.

Sounds like you're getting close to the end of the line for the clutch to me. I got a little bit over 80k with my clutch. I knew a guy with a '96 and the stock clutch made it to something like 130k. Truck pulled a steel 3-horse trailer with home-made living quarters every weekend (his daughter/my girlfriend at teh time was a can chaser.)

Luck with it.

 

[Ramprat]

Is that the orig clutch/flywheel......with 76k odd miles on a '97

Yep, it's all orginal on the 97

 

[Ramprat]

No sounds have changed & it's not slipping or anything, just way more jumpy and starting to chatter a tad.

Hope she hold out long enough for me to find a job

Who;s a good "cheap" source for a Luk clutch

 

[sle2115]

No sounds have changed & it's not slipping or anything, just way more jumpy and starting to chatter a tad.

Hope she hold out long enough for me to find a job

Who;s a good "cheap" source for a Luk clutch

I was pointed to http://www.dialaclutch.com/DAC-DEMO/search.asp and told they offer a discount to TDS members, may do likewise with oilburner members, not sure. If they don't, might be a good time to charm them into it! Or in your case, threaten to bomb them with noxious gas! :draw

 

[geonc]

Rampy, a decent single mass kit= single mass f/w, friction disc, pressure plate, new f/w bolts, throw out brg and neat spline tool will set ya dack about $800...that is what I paid for a South Bend CON-O that holds the power I was making when I put it in about 80Kmi ago--15 months...and I'm not the easiest on it either.....pulling trailers, sled pulling :Sly , and working my way into some obscene jobsites.

Now the reason I had to replace the orig POS Dual mass assy ......the flywheel chit the bed and busted the housing on the ZF The vibration was similiar to a u-joint going bad

here's a couple pics of what can POSSIBLY happen if a bad DMFW is allowed to self destruct......
I post these pics when I can to show what ignoreing it can lead to......

BEAN or Swamp are just a couple dealers

Ironically, I put a LUK cerametallic in my old IDI for about the same price and IMVHO, the South bend is better

Word has it that the LUK cerametallics don't hold up that great on the strokes.....that's what I hear anyways.

I would reccomend a South Bend....the miles you run should last a lifetime

 

[Ramprat]

$800.00

Then I'll have to pay some goober to install it as the last clutch I installed was a Zoom purple clutch on a 1970 Chebby SS 396 and it was a mess. Took 3 tries to get it right and even then I had to have a friend who was a wrench turner do it right the 3rd time

 

[Ramprat]

I was under the impression that Luk was the way to go, but now I'll start looking into South Bend

 

[RenoF250]

Jerking and chatter usually indicate oil got on it so it may not be worn out but probably still toast. What was the big idea with the DMFW? Seems pretty dumb to me. Everyone that has them switches them out and they can cause damage. What was the intended benefit?