Aye, Newbie here.

TUD5

What is a turbo?
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I should introduce myself first, I am Martin and I live in Scotland (we say things like aye, eh and aboot. Ken?)

Having issues starting my old IDI engined car. It's tiny 4 cylinder, 93CI TU5 series diesel built by PSA. Covered about 150,000 miles so not a huge amount.

anyways, it's very hard to start from cold (especially at 32F or less) Sometimes cranking for 15 seconds before it fires (after a 20 second pre-heat). When it fires, it starts and runs on all 4 smoothly. there's no spluttering - I'll check the resistance of the glowplugs but I don't think they'll be at fault. It's had a new battery and the battery is good under load.

However, recently, I have changed the cylinder head gasket and the cylinder head itself. My old head had a sticking inlet valve and a cracked pre-combustion chamber on another cylinder. H.G was also spewing oil down the side of the block.

So, cleaned the deck of the block, fitted a new gasket and head. It's got tappets and shims so I spent a few hours measuring all the clearances and swapping shims about - using some from the old head too) and they are all just about in tolerance.

When I re-assembled everything. All earthing points and exposed electrical posts were cleaned. The car turns over very fast compared to before. I'm not sure if this is compression related, or because I cleaned all the terminals on the starter etc.

I haven't changed the fuel filter, although I did drain the gooey watery **** from it - I will change that soon anyway.

tldr; - because I think the problem is here

Now, Fuel pump. It's a Bosch VE style pump. I bled the fuel lines BUT I have noticed that the fuel going into the pump (I have clear hose just coming out of the fuel filter housing so I can see, as the rest of the pipe is black rubber pipe) is bubble free, but on the lines coming out (they are clear silicone pipes) it's all frothy. any ideas why that might be? has to be air getting in there? The car certainly has more power than before, I can get it to 100mph and it's 4 seconds faster from 0-60 :D

The pump is timed correctly, I've retarded it and advanced it on the pulley with no effect on starting.

When the engine is hot, it starts within a few turns (about 0.5 seconds or less) on the starter.


Cheers for any help :hail


Remember, if it's from Scotland, it's Whisky. ;p
 

TUD5

What is a turbo?
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hmmm, I have plugs lying about, I'll give them a try on my power supply before fitting them. Might put an ammeter in and see what current is going to them. relay was fine before I changed the head, and so were the plugs.
 

TUD5

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Hahaha, I found my problem. It was letting in air right at the banjo for the fuel feed. Whipped off the copper washer, softened it and re-fitted it. All fixed!

What sorta trucks do you guys have? People over here in the UK seem to think that 2.0 TDi's are the best thing since sliced bread.

I'm a fan of the older 2 stroke diesels. They need to bring those back!
 

metrobruce

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I am driving a metro with the tud5 engine fitted, its not good at cold starting but its on 100% wmo once its started it takes about 5 mins of fast idle to get it to tick over smoothly, It has a looped return with a filter on the loop and the feed is going to be heated by a coolant heat exchanger near the tank and one near the loop. I have been doing some experiments of my own with heat and small amounts of heat make a huge difference so once the fuel system is heated it will help smooth out the rough running when cold
 

79jasper

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Good you found your problem.
We have all sorts of diesel trucks, but mainly 3/4 ton and bigger.
For diesel cars we have vw, audi, mercedes, stuff like that. We don't have a lot of diesel car options.

If you scroll down to the biodiesel forum, you can find others running WMO.
 

TUD5

What is a turbo?
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I am driving a metro with the tud5 engine fitted, its not good at cold starting but its on 100% wmo once its started it takes about 5 mins of fast idle to get it to tick over smoothly, It has a looped return with a filter on the loop and the feed is going to be heated by a coolant heat exchanger near the tank and one near the loop. I have been doing some experiments of my own with heat and small amounts of heat make a huge difference so once the fuel system is heated it will help smooth out the rough running when cold

Well, the standard filter housing uses coolant to heat the fuel.

Also, I hope you're not doing this on a Lucas or CAV pump, or you can wave bye bye to the seals ;)

Good you found your problem.
We have all sorts of diesel trucks, but mainly 3/4 ton and bigger.
For diesel cars we have vw, audi, mercedes, stuff like that. We don't have a lot of diesel car options.

If you scroll down to the biodiesel forum, you can find others running WMO.

We don't have any cool trucks in the UK. I saw a Dodge Ram once, lol
 

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