1994 turbo IDI won't start

[Sammy-B]

I first had the hard start issue synonymous with return lines so I bought the kit and had at er, it worked, barely, so then I put in a brand new starter, two new batteries, new battery cables, added an auxilary electric fuel pump, changed the fuel filter bought injectors from dieselcare (i know i cheaped out and took a gamble, i just might swap them locally) and just finished installing a brand new stanadyne IP and STILL hhave barely any fuel leaving the injector lines, fuel ****** out the schrader valve, and is reaching the pump and pours out my return lines when open but barrly anything comes out the hard lines, i have some white/grey smoke coming out my turbo downpipe so fuel is there... Please help!

 

[Sammy-B]

Oh I'll also note that the FSS does click when electricity is applied, and when installing the IP I did not remove the gear housing so timing was not changed, and before installing the pump I had turned it up 2 flats from stock

 

[Blownoiler]

What brand of engine is it? Blue and white smoke could point to insufficient cylinder compression, or even stuffed glow plugs! Who turned the pump up for you? How do you remove the pump without changing the timing? Are the injection pipes bolted back into the right order? Is the system full of air still?

 

[Sammy-B]

Its the international IDI with stock turbo, I had turned the pump up just under 2 flats, to my knowledge they are bolted back properly, it seemed like they would only go back together easily one way, as for removing the pump I had marked where the gears were positioned for the old pump in case I had accidentally moved it while installing the pump, I removed the housing bolts but didn't completely take it out, i had only repositioned it so I could fit the pump in place, and to my knowledge there could still be air in the lines I'm just unsure of how much open line cranking it would take to purge the air out

 

[Blownoiler]

I'm not familiar with the inter engine, maybe someone else who is can help you here!

 

[Sammy-B]

Turns out it just took a long time to bleed the fuel lines, all is good. She started real rough but she's running smooth now. Will post back in a day or two.

 

[onebadiditurbo]

These old idi motors have a lot of air to purge if you totally went through the system as described. a little trick for futur reference is pull the cover of the air filter housing and soak a rag with gasoline and hold over the intake hole. it ll pull the vapor of the gas and fire and run on it but be real carefull not to let it suck the rag away from you. its alot easier on the head bolts than starter fluid or either. not nearly as volitile.

 

[Sammy-B]

Thanks for the tip! Will definitely try that next time I have to purge the lines, or I'll get my buddy with his F-550 tow truck to pull start me in 2nd or 3rd gear until it fires on its own like we've done before haha, I've noticed after sitting overnight it still takes a while to start, I'll likely need new glow plugs to help since it's gone to low single digits (degrees celcius) the last few nights, and there could be some blockages in my return lines leading back to the tanks, I plan on getting those done in the next little while as well since I've got several feet of hose leftover from my bulk purchases. Other than that the truck runs great on diesel as well as SVO, I've changed my rubber lines to synthetic except for those leading back to the tanks, my heat exchanger works flawlessly and definitely doesn't hurt my fuel economy when I'm just using diesel either. I plan on putting an in-tank heating element for my veggie fuel tank (my rear one) so my wait times to switch tanks is shorter and possibly non existant, fuel economy differences between diesel and SVO is negligable, with the pump turned up a bit its hurt it from 21+ mpg hwy to about 18 or 19 mind you I've only turned it up two flats and I don't redline it, I barely take it past 2-2500 rpm unless I really need to give 'er.

Anyways, enough of my rambling, thanks again!