I decided to put new (China) lines on (not fun getting them to fit) when I replaced my pump and injectors. Now I'm thinking about putting the old ones back on. I was never happy with the fit and now I'm wondering if I can get it tuned better with the original lines. I get some smoke at startup...
Maybe he wants a kill switch to stop a runaway engine? (by shutting off the fuel supply)
Not a bad idea. I don't know how often that happens or what causes it.
There is a wire that goes to the injection pump. There is a valve there that is closed when it does not have power. It prevents fuel from going to the injection pump (probably to prevent fuel spills in the event of an accident or other failure?). It opens when you turn the key on.
It seems you...
My key stopped working but I could start it by jumping the solenoid posts. So I replaced the contacts slider board in the steering column. Not a fun job. And still no go. I gave up and wired in a push button. Sorry. That's all I've got.
I don't think it's common to have an IP just quit. I knew mine was getting tired because it didn't want to restart when the engine was warm. But it would start fine when cold.
My speedo. was bouncy. Then it stopped working. It turned out to be the cable. The old lube inside gave up and it finally got twisted until it broke. You might get away with just taking yours apart and lubing it.
The tach. didn't work when I got my '87. I bought a new sender and still no tach. and still (maybe more?) oil leaking at the sender. Ugh. Makes you want to stop trying to make things right.
I had no leaks before I bought the Red Head and paid my local to indy install it so I'm assuming it's the Red Head. But I dunno. Sucks all around but I can't get motivated to deal with it properly again.
Thanks for this. I think?
I didn't have time to check which lube my front and rear. diffs. take before I left so I took a chance and grabbed 8 quarts.
Also got a bunch of power steering fluid for my new (leaking, grrr) Red Top and a bunch of 5w-20 oil for my beater Subaru.
I may dig into doing this soon.
I also need to repair/replace my seatbelt retractor. I tired to take off the body plastics to get at it but I bailed out for fear of breaking it. Any advice on getting that piece off would be greatly appreciated.
I won't be the one taking it apart to find out.
So how does it play out if I buy a donor and send it to R&D and it needs sleeves or heads? It goes from $6500 to ...$10K?
And what about the transmission connection from donor to mine when someone I hire tries to swap my engine for the rebuilt one...
I'm thinking about getting a spare engine built to have on standby.
It's not something I would consider attempting myself so I would need to find someone capable and willing.
Say you bought a used engine that supposedly "ran good when pulled"(yah, sure), how much $ would you budget to have it...
It's Rotella rebate time of year.
https://rotella.shell.com/en_us/promos-loyalty-rewards/coupons-rebates-and-sweepstakes/get-up-to-80-dollar-in-mastercard-virtual-reward.html
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