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  1. J

    1990 F-250 HD 7.3 IDI Turbo Replaced Radiator and did not take pics nor label!…

    I went with the spring types after reading up on why the OEMs have went to them. Thermal expansion over the long term made me lean toward the spring type. They don't seem tight enough compared to the screw type, but all OEMs use them, be it for reliability, ease of install and/or cost. They...
  2. J

    1990 F-250 HD 7.3 IDI Turbo Replaced Radiator and did not take pics nor label!…

    Below are better updated pics showing the routing and the trans cooler. You can see the plug where I blocked off the unused line and left the old line hanging/not really attached.
  3. J

    1990 F-250 HD 7.3 IDI Turbo Replaced Radiator and did not take pics nor label!…

    Not sure if this helps, but here's a pic of when I replaced my lines and trans cooler. I ended up replacing the screw type clamps with correct sized spring clamps. And also plugged the radiator's trans/coolant line (the really old looking hose) since that line is no longer available. Replaced...
  4. J

    '89 F350 Trans Cooler Install

    Thanks DirtyWood, you were correct on the 5/16" hoses. I swapped the clamps over to the spring style "constant tension" clamps, and the 3/8 hoses on the metal transmission lines leaked like crazy. I swapped the hose barbs on the radiator and the transmission cooler to 5/16" barbs and replaced...
  5. J

    '89 F350 Trans Cooler Install

    Ok, now you've got me going down the clamp type rabbit hole. The above clamps are very good. I'm also reading about constant tension clamps being recommended for heater hose and other applications that are subjected to wide temperature variations. I'll be replacing those cheap worm clamps and...
  6. J

    '89 F350 Trans Cooler Install

    It does make you wonder the purpose. I do see the small restriction hole (see below). I think I'll follow you guys' advice and plug the radiator hole and replace both heater hoses with straight hose (Gates Green Stripe 5/8 Inch Heater Hose - 28447). The original 5/8" hose is really showing...
  7. J

    '89 F350 Trans Cooler Install

    You're probably correct. The 3/8" hose is pretty flexible. At least on mine, the hose clamps did tighten up enough to work. Does anyone know the part number or source for the below hose with the yellow arrow? I can't seem to find it on any of the typical parts store websites.
  8. J

    '89 F350 Trans Cooler Install

    The radiator and trans cooler both have 3/8" hose barbs. I don't know the exact side of the factory metal lines from the transmission. The 3/8" seemed to fit, no leaks and feels secure.
  9. J

    '89 F350 Trans Cooler Install

    Hey guys, I posted this on another site, but wanted to post here also just in case members here are not on the other site. Since I couldn’t find an exact mounting video or thread for my exact model, 1989 F350, I thought I would post the below. I had a small trans cooler that has been installed...
  10. J

    Summit Radiator?

    Got the Summit Radiator installed. It's almost identical to the original OEM. Summit is 3 core vs OEM 4 core, but all else seems to be the same. Even at 3 core, a quick 20 mile trip down the road, it seems to run cooler. The original did have some clogged passages, so it was showing it's 35...
  11. J

    Rebuilding a 7.3 IDI Turbo

    I'm probably very late in posting this, but here's a few snapshots of differences in IDI and IDI-T internals.
  12. J

    Summit Radiator?

    Looks like 3 Core.
  13. J

    Summit Radiator?

    KansasIDI, Summit doesn't specify core number. I have no idea how to visually verify, but this thing is heavy. Does anyone know how to verify the number of cores? JM
  14. J

    Summit Radiator?

    Received the Summit Brass/Copper Radiator. It is exactly as advertised, Brass/Copper. Haven't installed, but looks to be a good replacement. Sorry for the upside down first pic:)
  15. J

    Summit Radiator?

    Thanks guys! I'm going to take a chance and order the Summit. I know the aluminum would be fine, I just like the thought of good old copper and brass. My original worked great at cooling, never saw it go near half way on the gauge even when pulling heavy loads. I could get the small leak...
  16. J

    Summit Radiator?

    My original radiator has a small leak. I've read multiple threads on what's available, but nobody has mentioned the Brass/Copper Radiator from Summit, PN:SUM-382037. I can't find any other new production brass/copper radiator. Has anyone tried one of these...
  17. J

    Rad options

    Has anyone tried the Spectra CU1166? Looks like Brass/copper 4 core. At $570, it's not cheap, but it's the only Brass/Copper/4 Core that I've found. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=271478&cc=1126482&pt=2172&jsn=11048
  18. J

    One rear brake locks up

    Several things could cause your issues, I had similar issues a while back. I'd recommend the below. Do the easy checks first and maybe you'll get lucky with an easy adjustment fix. Check for a frozen parking brake cable. Look under the bed where the brake cable splits to the right and left...
  19. J

    ATS Turbo original literature and instructions

    The original E4OD in 1989 shifted slow (my F350 is an '89 model), shifting was computer controlled. This slow shift caused "clutch friction heat damage and overheating of the fluid and converter causing more damage" according to the ATS letter on the transmission. I don't remember the exact...
  20. J

    ATS Turbo original literature and instructions

    And Transmission letters. Back in the day, our ATS install had to wait until Ford made an updated Transmission computer. Also one last letter from ATS on install instructions.
  21. J

    ATS Turbo original literature and instructions

    Flyer that came with the Turbo kit
  22. J

    ATS Turbo original literature and instructions

    Sirs, For your reading enjoyment. I dug out the original literature from 30 years ago to find where to connect a boost gauge. I thought you guys may like to see the original instructions and literature that came with it. JM
  23. J

    Did I kill my jump pack, or my battery, or both?

    BLUF you really need charge the batteries with a good charger, see if that helps. If not, get them to an autoparts store to have them load tested. After resting for at least 2 hours (no charging/discharging), 12.7 is considered 100% State of Charge. 12.06 is 50% SOC. If you are at 11.9, your...
  24. J

    Did I kill my jump pack, or my battery, or both?

    I'd recommend charging the batteries with a good 6 to 10 amp charger overnight if possible. Trickle chargers and solar chargers can passivate lead acid batteries. A good high amp charger can sometimes burn the passivation/plating off. IDIBronco is correct. Voltage may look good, but capacity...
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