If this is a p-pump 12v then you will actually want more fuel pressure.
Can you give a few more details about the engine please.
Happy to help in any way that I can. What electric pumps are you running?
Most 12v guys stick with the mechanical block mounted pump unless we go to monster...
Another option is to pull the valve covers and run the truck stationary. Watch to see if you’re getting fuel in rocker box area around the injectors.
As much as you’re diluting your oil with fuel, if the bubble test isn’t showing any signs and it can’t be spotted under the valve covers ...
Could be bad/cracked/nicked/rolled o-rings, cracked injector, cracked head, or a few other odd/rare things.
Do a bubble test on the fuel system.
Basically, pull the secondary fuel filter and leave the cap off. Then fill the fuel filter housing with fuel(you can key on for this or fill from a...
That’s tough to hear. I just did an engine replacement for a client of mine in one of their gas 5.7 tundras because an employee didn’t pull over after losing a water pump.
That’s an expensive bill. Not only parts, but labor.
All due to negligence on the part of the operator.
Operator error...
https://www.oilburners.net/threads/possible-05-6-0-purchase-need-advice.84419/
This thread has most of the info that you’re looking for.
I’m mobile at the moment, so I’m not in a position to summarize it. My apologies.
If the truck is sound then I’d buy it. That’s a lot of truck for 5k.
Sorry to hear it for that kid. But glad it isn’t your headache.
That’s a lesson that most of us only really learn the hard way.
Hopefully he didn’t hydrolock it or pump all the coolant out and overheat it to the point of dying.
That’s a serious leak though to actually kill the truck.
Oil out the exhaust and or breather problems will usually be from one or more of the following.
Turbo oil seals
Valve seals
Head gasket
Burnt rings
Failed cylinder
Failed piston
Start by checking out the turbo. It’s the easiest to check and not uncommon to fail on a high mile or old age turbo...
If it’s an aftermarket exhaust, it’s possible the exhaust wasn’t aligned well when installed.
First thing I would do is use a floor jack under the truck on the exhaust after the downpipe. Try to use the jack to take the weight off of the exhaust to help align the downpipe.
Next would be to...
I’d concentrate on the transmission connector first. Check all of the wires and the pins on the VB.
I would recommended ohming the wires from the connector to the ecm plug.
If the breather hasn’t been modified or moved, then it’s built into the tappet cover on the drivers side of the block rearward of the injection pump.
Newer trucks have the breather in front of the injection pump gear on the front cover.
Do not add seafoam to the oil to thin it. Your injectors run on oil pressure.
Hot shot secret
Archoil
Rev x
Those are fine.
I usually run rev x or archoil
If you are doing an egr delete, do not just weld up the cooler or run block offs. Replace the upper passenger pipe on the y-pipe/uppipe...
When a 12v comes in that I don’t know the history on, there are a few things I reccomended. Obviously you’re already doing some of this. I’m just listing this for someone that finds this thread and isn’t already doing the work.
Kdp
Verify and set timing
Valve lash
AFC and plate adjustment
New...
Only some of the late year 12v had a 53 block. If that engine is factory original then it won’t be a 53.
Most likely the kdp came loose. Wedges between the cam gear and case. Cracked the case and then fell down to the pan.
You can epoxy the case as a bush fix. To replace the case, you will...
Another test that I’ve used in the past is the cooling system bubble test.
Basically use a rubber plug or spare degas bottle cap. Essentially you need something to connect to the top of the degas bottle and be able to seal. Then that device needs to be drilled and have a fitting attached that...
Since you don’t have coolant in oil or oil in coolant, you need to do a pressure test on the cooling system next. Typically a blown cooler or head gasket will pressurize the cooling system. Not always. But typically.
There’s the tooless way that can tell you a bit. But if you are up for...
The LPO gauge in the dash is the last item in a long chain to get a signal. Some trucks will never show oil pressure on the LPO gauge while cranking. If you pull the oil filter and crank the truck and the oil filtered housing fills, then you should have LPO. May have to throw a mechanical gauge...
Having it hot helps a lot doing the test. Even more critical is having enough volume of air at a high enough pressure. Keep in mind the pressure that this system runs at. Helps to have compressor that’s not regulated down for small hand tools on the line you’re using.
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