How are you deleting the vacuum pump, are you going with no cruise or some other system? Only other thing I can think of that runs off of vacuum is the brakes and you went with hydro so that takes care of that. I have a feeling that my vacuum system is on the downhill slide so going with hydro...
When I replaced the shocks on my 88, I had a bit of an alignment problem too. The front ones were fine, but the rears were a bit tricky. I put in coil overs so I don't know if that had anything to do with it or not. That was last August and I've had no problems suspension wise since then...
When I replaced the shocks on my 88, I had a bit of an alignment problem too. The front ones were fine, but the rears were a bit tricky. I put in coil overs so I don't know if that had anything to do with it or not. That was last August and I've had no problems suspension wise since then...
Haven't messed with the shower head thing yet so what you're saying is a very real possibility. That be the case though, that means I have to drop both tanks, clean them out, replace the showerheads, and either replace the FSV, or do like you say and drill the rivets out and clean it out...
The rear tank worked fine for several months with no issues so I don't think it was reversed. Could be a hole up near the top. Something else, when the truck died, there was plenty of fuel in the fuel filters (gotta love goldenrod). It was doing this before I added the extra fuel filters, so...
I lost the sending unit on the front tank a couple weeks ago so I"m trying not to get too upset at the truck. I think I'll switch over to manual valves next payday. Electric is nice, but something to be said for manual stuff when you have to troubleshoot. I"m also half tempted to replace the...
That was pleasant.
Replaced all 4 O rings on the FSV for the rear tank and took her for a drive and it still did the same thing. Ran good, then started surging, complete with some really nice power, then power loss again. Died around the corner from the house, tried to start it and the...
Got that fitting loose and the female side has 2 o-rings in it. Brown in color (vitons?) So how do you replace those two O rings? Cut the fitting and replace it?
I was only able to work on the one line before I had to quit so the others might be okay. If I can get the FSV to move a bit so i can get both hands on it, then i will replace all of the o rings.
Still chasing air intrusion and am currently still unable to use rear tank. Upon switching to rear tank I get surging and a slow but steady loss of power. Switch back to the front tank and power comes back within 1/8-1/4 mile. So that should mean it's from the FSV back to the rear tank. I...
I would. I had a couple that looked like they were on, but didn't quite snap into place. I would also make sure your clamps are tight. I just got done fixing one that wasn't tight enough and I was able to pull the return line off with my hands. And if one can do, I'm sure another one can, so...
And for anyone else with an 88 f250 with a 7.3 idi n/a here is an electrical diagram that I found that actually matched our truck. All the other diagrams didn't match, they showed the FSS as only having one wire.
Fixed my melted electrical wires for the FSS and cold start solenoids, fixed a fuel leak and put some more Permatex on the fuel heater plug because it looked like it might have been leaking.
Think I found it. Looks like the wiring diagram goes from the glow plug controller to the FSS to the engine temp sensor, then to the cold idle solenoid and then the cold advance solenoidl. Guess all those diagrams I downloaded from my Alldata subscription finally paid off.
Had a bit of a problem today. I was able to get it home but am having a hard time piecing the wiring back together. The wiring for the FSS, engine temp switch, low idle and cold advance solenoids are all fried. I was able to tell what goes where with the exception of the FSS. The diagram I...
I added a Goldenrod water separator and a Donaldson secondary filter using a Wix filter head. Had to make my own bracket and it didn't turn out exactly like I wanted but so far it's working. I kept the stock filter head so I can still have the sensors and Shrader valve.
Thanks man. I will pull those off probably Sat. I finally got my new fuel filters in to go with my new wix filter head and Goldenrod water separator so that will go in tomorrow. I'll take some pics when it goes in.
Joel
norcal
Okay, I looked at my fuel lines on this truck and they are those nylon plastic ones like are on my wife's 2002 Chevy Astro. And they've got those fittings that attach with what looks like a big plastic cotter pin. IIRC, these don't have an O ring, but I didn't get a chance to take the fittings...
I'm leaning towards a fitting on the selector switch or the lines themselves. The problem only happens on the back tank and regardless of whether the tank is half full or full. I didn't know about the O rings so will be checking those. Thanks for that one.
Joel
norcal
Did you find out what was wrong with your truck? Mine just started doing the same thing but only on the rear tank, not the front. Kinda like hitting the NOS button, but I don't have NOS....
Joel
norcal
Okay, that makes a bit more sense. Right now I'm only getting 4-5 gallons a week WVO and I don't drive a whole lotta miles in a week. I've added an additional manually switched 12v heater to my system on the fuel filter itself, but I don't think it gets the fuel warm enough fast enough. So...
Sorry, my reply should have gone to MTKirk.
What kind of better clamping method did you use? Just hose clamps? I've been having a hard time find hose clamps that go down that small.
joel
norcal
Why would you have to delete the return line to the filter if you are running some sort of alternative fuel? Not being argumentative, just curious. I'm running a 50-50 mix of WVO and D2 on the back tank.
Thanks
Joel
norcal
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