Fed ex finally got us our rings, and back together the bottom end goes, even with 300k+ miles and a ball hone ring gap was on the bottom of the spec, .015” on the top compression rings and .060” on the second. Refreshed heads and studs installed along with the cam and lifters. Ended up using a...
The front frame boxing is the rsk extension to run the excursion springs in the front, the rear of the frame has some additional Chanel riveted to the main frame for support, could be a cab chassis thing or something Ford did because of the lift that they put on the truck for use in Antarctica.
Which o ring? The advance piston bore seals off the housing to piston fit, no o ring or seal since its under load from the injection cycles on the cam ring.
When you swap the problematic pump you should pull the 1" advance bore plug out of the passenger side of the pump, remove the cam pin plug on the bottom of the advance bore (1/4" allen), pull the cam pin out and pop the advance piston out the passenger side and inspect it for damage, sounds just...
Went through the rotten cab mounts with an energy suspension kit, picked up a good inch of firewall clearance over the turbo and no longer have vibration from the downpipe rubbing the cab when backing the ambo, might have room for a bigger turbo now...
Cab doesn’t have nearly as much...
Got my 225amp 3g kit installed, totally different truck now. Had to turn the regulator down with the fuel pump putting out more volume at the higher running voltage, batteries crank the truck much quicker now that they’re being fully charged to 14.7v, and with all the light and sirens on the...
Goals for 2021, I want to see all my customer projects completed, I would like to see one of my db2s make a four digit hp number on the dyno, and I would like to see my truck back on the road.
I’m a believer in, if it ain’t broke don’t try to fix it, but if you’ve noticed a drop in mpgs when you previously saw better numbers you’re probably loosing some of your advance curve and not making as efficient power at part throttle. If it gets bad enough and you travel a lot it may warrant a...
That’s very good, although turning the pumps fuel delivery up won’t have any negative affects for reliability, in fact you can often cheat a bit more life out of a worn pump by turning the fuel up. Your high idle issue is likely unrelated to the pump, it’s probably an issue with your high idle...
The lock nut has to stay to retain the o ring against the housing and seal the torque screw. Y’all can experiment with electric control if you like, but I plan to keep electronics off my db2s indefinitely. It would be more difficult to do with the smaller pumps like 90 and 110s because of the...
To add to my comments on rotor workings, here is a .310 rotor cut in half with an EDM machine. You can see the pumping chamber at the top, below that the two fill ports, below that is the delivery valve location and single discharge port.
Yes, a steel sleeve is a cheap upgrade and a sleeved advance bore is the only way to build a reliable db2 anymore, the steel sleeve although an improvement over bare aluminum will still wear out the advance piston and lead to transfer pressure issues down the road. My solution (we're getting...
Here’s how the cam ring, cam pin and advance piston interact. As the advance piston moves in its bore it changes the relationship of the cam ring to the rotor attached to the driveshaft, changing the injection timing by 10-12* by its function alone.
The torque screw basically is an adjustable stop for the metering valve, limiting how much fuel can get through the mv and into the charging ports in the head.
The leaf spring is an adjustable limit to your plunger stroke, it compresses as you tighten the screw which causes the edges of the...
They all get that way very quickly, in a matter of 20-30k miles, it’s the lowest point of the housing so contaminates end up in that bore when the pump is shut off, and with the cam pin going through the advance piston into the cam ring you have upwards pressure on the advance piston pushing it...
Now we have a bare housing and head and rotor assembly, let’s talk about what went wrong here.
It’s evident that the advance piston showed the most dramatic wear, and it’s definitely responsible for this pump’s failure to start hot. The plunger bore is immeasurably worn, and the rotor to head...
Now for the last bit of disassembly, put comes the delivery valve assembly, very minimal wear here on the delivery valve and stop, these were working fine but I will be replacing the valve with a higher flowing upgrade, and replacing the stop and spring to ensure a clean idle and injection...
With the rotor locks removed, we can start inspecting the heart of the pump, the head and rotor assembly. Looking into the head bore, we see some faint wear on the discharge port side that is mirrored on the rotor right pass the discharge ports. This is acceptable wear, and outstanding for the...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.