I have been using Del City for electrical stuff. They have a large selection, and have a lot of items I couldn't find anywhere else.
https://www.delcity.net/
I expect they are not the cheapest source, but I have been happy with the quality and selection.
I think your parts truck might be nicer than my project. I'm gonna keep my eyes open for a bull nose that clean like that. The ones I see are hammered.
This is very helpful! Thanks. I think I'll double my time budget. I also only have 1 day a week for this project at best. I"m really glad I can run my plan by the forum before I start. I want to make sure I don't end up with a torn apart truck that never runs again that I need to sell at a...
I agree. Power train and suspension come first. I would like to strip and paint a lot of parts to prevent rust while I'm in there. That truck posted above doesn't look like the same truck. Paint is really nice. How is the interior? As nice as the outside?
I'm going to read through the...
Thanks for all the input. I'm thinking around 500 a month for 2 years puts me at 12K. That's a lot compared to what the trucks worth, but a fraction of a new truck. I"m going to check out some of these builds you're pointing out, and then I'll take another pass at what I'd like to do.
I just read though (the first few pages) the Big Red build thread. Great read. I like how the goals were set out early. I also really enjoyed the step by step details about the build and how every system was gone through. I got me thinking of my project and what I'd like to do.
1986 F350...
Talked to the machine shop guy today. I've dealt with this shop for years. They do good work and I trust them. I"m thinking to have him just go though and check everything do valve job and square the heads. I've heard not to deck the heads on this forum, but as long as the valve to deck...
Now the issue is I really don't like leaks. Any reason not to re-seal timing cover, water pump (maybe replace), front seal, and pan gasket? Anything else I should do while I"m here? BTW: Oil cooler is dry.
Thanks. I see it now. Going to break out the magnifying glass and inspect it more carefully. Do I have to replace rod bearing if I disconnect it to replace the piston? Or can I just re-install and retorque assuming I don't remove the bearing from the caps.
Are the cracks in the pic with four cylinders, or the close up of one? I don't see it or I'm hoping the sharp vertical indent to the right of the large circular indent next to the valve relief cutout is a dent and not a crack.
Thanks for the heads up on the head studs. I was thinking about the ARP studs. I think I'm gonna take the plunge.
Gonna take a second look for the crack. Ugg...
Sorry, it wasn't obvious (to me)how you got the fan clutch and fan off. It looks like your trick is to remove the fan to install a stud and brace a wrench against the stud. Are you loosening the bolt the wrench is attached too, or using the wrench to brace the fan while you remove the large...
The heads look pretty good to me, but I think I'm going to have them checked at the machine shop. It probably doesn't cost much to check them, and if it's been rebuild, as long as they did a good job, they should be fine. At 20 tho over do I have another rebuild out of this block?
Here's a close up of a cylinder with some gasket material or carbon debris in the cylinder. I don't know if you can see it in the photo, but I think I see a .020" on the top of the cylinder. Is this a 20 tho over piston suggesting t his motor has been rebuilt? It did have upgraded 7.3 rocker...
And the heads/block. I used a shop vac while I was scraping the gasket with a razor to try to catch all the little bits of gasket. Not sure if there is a better way (some material found its way into cylinders) but it seemed to work pretty good.
And the current state of affairs. I pulled the front clip to pull the motor to check that glow plugs weren't in head or cylinder. After pulling the heads (they are very heavy) I"m glad I pulled the motor out to do this.
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