I've never seen a difference :dunno
It's a non-tilt column but the turn signal switch has the copper contacts for both the horn and cruise control ring on the steering wheel. Plus (obviously) the cruise control module under the dash.
The clock ring and contacts are clean. I made sure of that when I swapped steering wheels and was tracking down my no horn issue. The horn pad and switches got swapped as well. Before the swap the cruise control did nothing.
Here's to hoping the switches just need cleaned!
Cruise control finally works! ...kinda.
On the way back from our Memorial Day work weekend at our favorite campsite, I decided to attempt to use the cruise control again. This time it worked! BUT! The Set/Accel switch is functioning as the resume switch and the Off and Coast switches are both...
Man, now I'm a little worried about putting the 1356 from the bronco on the Enterprise for a 4x4 swap. I have a 1345 in Bruiser and it's been worked hard with no issues. Neither one has a slip yoke output though. My 1345 just has the yoke and the BKO 1356 has a flange.
That's the axle shaft. Driveshaft is what drives the pinion.
Studs and nylock nuts will fix that. The class A axles have the axle shaft retained with studs, nylocks and small washers.
Personally, I like the split loom since it makes bends smoothly. The signal stat wiring on the back side of the Enterprise was done in hose...freggin garden hose. Holds well, but looks like crap and doesn't make bends well. Would be difficult to get back into to trace a wire or track down a...
I had rocker bolts on my 300 back out. Was just many, many miles of vibration. Was enough to not move the valve and pulled this big 5'er home on only 5 cylinders. I rebuilt the top end and used rocker studs and double nuts though :D
I don't think my IDI will really rev that high on the road...
Start with the vacuum solonoid on top of the duct box tucked up next to the passenger side fender. That little white vacuum line is notorious for rotting out.
That part never came up. I also have all steel stems, but I can reach them easily now. I just really want the shiny clean looking wheels without aluminum outers/steel inners. And I'll never put the simulators back on. They cut into the sidewall of one of my tires! Was just never a fan of hub...
I looked at those on ebay before. Talked to my friendly tire guy about them and he said they tend to start leaking over a short time. I really just want my steelies chrome dipped :D
The terrible mileage got me thinking that I hadn't gotten around to airing up the rear tires. Had to yank the simulators just to check the pressure last year. I'll keep an eye on them and if they loosen again they'll get the loctite. Didn't leak though!
I got home from a trip that I swear I got terrible mileage on. 190 miles on a full rear tank (20 gallon. Guessing it was returning to the front tank?) and noticed while I was airing the rear tires that my passenger side axle shaft was loose!
All 8 flange bolts were loose and had obviously...
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