I got 38 ohms across the terminals with the relay energised. In a ford service document for a psd it said if its over 8ohms replace it. Is 38 really that much?
what i wondering as well is the ground of the relay...i dont have anythign on the bottom pin. it is basicaly just fastened to a abre steel plate which is welded to the fender. Bad ground? Do I need to ground it seperately from the bottom terminal to the battery?
ah yes the PSD white rogers every one uses. I knwo the starter relays are only like 30/40 amp i believe. And dont the GP pull almost 80 on startup, abviously tapers down logarithmicly, but that 1-2 seconds of high amp pull..
It could have, but it ended up putting it at a greater angle than 90 degrees. I notched and welded it this morning and all is good now. I dont have have the beads rolled on my tube, have yet to blow a boot off at 25 psi with the old hx35, if I do blow a boot off (not blowing it apart) ill take...
where i got to this morning.
need to weld up that pipe you see in passenger side and put one more fitting onto the -16 hose for the catch can which is behind the driver headlight. more secure, adn easier to drain now!
should i paint the charge pipes yellow or black??
Mel, what does the fueling curve look like with the omega pump? I see 130 cc max, at what rpm? Do you have a graph you could share? Also still 3600 rpm limit?
this is true.
WHen I get around to it, I will finally be hooking up my cold advance solenoid. Question, how much does it really help on cold morning starts?
I do miss that insanely loud clatter when its advanced..
Anyone know the thread size of the oil fill cap on a 7.3 idi? I want to use the neck for my four air out instead of the 3/4" npt bung i welded onto the lemon cover. eliminates basicaly two 90 degree bends and is a larger opening.
ran it for a few minutes last night. no immediate leaks. Doing oil change today and solidly mounting the catch can. -16 lines to and from it with oil resistant cloth braided hose. Dont want to be changing out the cheap heater hose every 6k miles due to oil permeation. Welding up the bumper...
got the -10 drain made, abotu 1mm of hose peeking through between the fittings...its a tight fit, ordered a stubby wrench and crows foot to tighten the bottom, well see how that goes tonight. I dropped one of the serrated flange nuts sumwhere on the back of the engine, had ot buy a new magnetic...
need, rear left seatbelt in RED.
need two front A pillars color doesnt matter
the two upper headlinertrim pieces that go above the front doors between A and B pillar. color does not matter.
need all 4 black trim pieces for the floor between a-b and b-c pillars.
price shipped to 48462...
new downpipe and turbo is made, welded on teh t4 flange and ported everythign so its a nice flowpath,waiting on last peice today for the drain flange then can make the AN drain, and waiting on 1" crows foot tomorrow to actualyl tighten it as this sucker is tight. Installed the interior and LED...
that would make it very quiet i think. I put it over the rear cab wall, it stiffened it and defintily made it quieter. it was just paint before and was very tinny sounding when tapping it, now its a nice dull thud. (mine is jsut a flat sheet with two peices of angle iron welded to it to stiffen...
howd you replace the piston without pulling the pan..?
BTW great info ITT, sorry bout the loss thats a bummer. But yes, just get another RTO engine and drop it in, theyre liek 500 bucks. I figure you will be at least 500 for repairing the head, stripping it, valve job on all of them while you...
wraparoudn battery warmer you say..Hmm woudl be nice to tie that into all 1 plug so when you knwo it will be a deep freeze, plug it into 1 outlet and feel warm and fuzzy.
Yes the wing is infact a little wider on the new one, as well as a different style, it is straigth vs the angled one...
I came up with an idea, used the old 2 puece rear wing nut on the new assembly which has the new o ring on bolt and the body housing. Now it should pop in. Will try in the morning, annd put the new rad in, fill with coant and observe for leaks. Cleaned the hell out of the o ring groove
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