State: Texas
City: Dallas
Capability: pulse
Equipment: Ferret timing adapter, adjustable timing light, and a fairly well equipped shop
Contact: PM works best
Cost: $10, willing to travel if needed for an extra charge
Horrible idea. Thieves don't think that far ahead; they see it as easy pickings. If one see two cars, and one has the keys in it, that will be the one they take every time.
Unless you are using a loading dock, lower beds are much easier to use and have more headroom for tall items. In fact, I prefer to use a trailer that sits even lower to the ground to move pretty much everything.
Most thieves are stupid and lazy. That said, if they break into a vehicle, it is to steal something that they can sell quickly. Don't keep anything of valuable visible or make it look like it could contain valuables. As for an alarm, I would get one that has a pager alarm with a long range or...
I know some people don't think electronics are reliable, but in my experience they are often the least troublesome part of a car. My DD is an 86 nissan that is loaded with electronics with 430k miles. They have all been solidly reliable.
In Texas, there are no emission testing for the older diesels like my 93, and there never have been. I suggest that anyone that is concerned about laws on this or any topic to write whomever they need regarding this issue and keep at til you receive a specific reply. Some laws change only...
Agreed, but its not just rural areas. People everywhere seem to have no savings and and will sell valuable things at a fraction of their worth when they need money.
As to the OP, too many of these same people look at how much the can afford to pay a month rather than buy something outright...
If you don't have time to travel, you will never get this project completed. I see it all the time; I have bought many incomplete projects for pennies on the dollar. Here is a hint for long distance purchases: pay a shop to do an evaluation before you make the trip or pay for a service to...
The cheapest and easiest way to get the truck you want is buy a rust free version of what you want. Do a nationwide search in the areas that don't salt roads. The time and money you will save can not be beat in a more efficient way.
Cap off the pickup in the tank and then pressurize the line with air (it does not take much). The hiss will be the air leaking out. Fix that and it should work fine.
There is a good reason NOT to use it: it is dangerous. A/C systems are both in the engine compartment on the other side of the fire wall with all those other flammable fluids, but it also goes inside the passenger compartment. This is can be very bad if you are in a crash, for example. Same...
Evans is good stuff, but I only use it on my high hp cars. For stock, it is just a bandaid that is covering up a much bigger issue. For me, I like to fix problems rather than try to mask them.
Are you saying not to use any water? Running pure coolant is not a good idea. If water is causing you problems, you have other issues. I run 80% water in all my vehicles as freezing is not an issue, but hard use (that generates lots of heat) is. I have also never had a radiator last for...
I am not sure on all the options these trucks had. If yours does have slider pins, just use bearing grease. On my cars that have them, I regrease whenever I check the pads for wear, and do the bearings while I am there, too.
The industry standard is core balancing. When I had my shop, the most common cause of really bad problems was the owner trying to work on something with no knowledge.
http://www.turbotechnics.com/www/?page_id=12
http://www.hofmann-global.com/en/turbocharger-balancing.html
Get someone that knows what they are doing to look at it. Not sure if you meant it, but if you removed the "screw" that holds on the "impeller" then your turbo is likely now out of balance and has or will destroy itself. Of you might just have a boost leak and running very rich.
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