I had more or less the same issue a while back. Fortunately I don't have a driver side door panel so access was always easy. For quite some time I got the window back in action by pounding my fist in the general area of the window motor and then I found that using the handle end of a...
Have you replaced the brake booster? There is a pushrod that applies pressure to the master cylinder and it's certainly possible that it is out of adjustment. Since you seem to have replaced darn near everything else you might as well as check the booster and scratch it off the list of...
A bit off-topic here but have you WVO people had issues with rats or other vermin attacking rubber parts? I recently spoke to someone who lived in a rural area and had so many problems with rodents being attracted by the WVO that they gave up on it due to chewed up rubber fuel lines...
I had smiliar issue. Replaced the pump and worked perfect for a few days then no worky. Turned out to be a loose connection so I purchased a new connector through Autozone and no problems since. Also, Autozoned had the connector/plug indexed incorrectly in the computer system but I was able...
Thanks for the replies. You guys pretty much confirmed what I had suspected. This is the truck,
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/d/mountain-view-1994-f-turbo-diesel/6855995463.html
The guy wants too much money for it so I'm gonna' wait a bit. I asked him if he had upgraded or replaced...
Found another nice low-mileage '94 IDIT but it has an e4od which for some reason scares me. How much power can the stock internals of the e4od take before you are really rolling the dice? I would add an aux cooler and upgrade the TC but I have seen such a huge range of costs for upgrading the...
If your ABS light consistently lights up at 36mph then look at your brake lights/wiring like Wes suggested. Also if you by chance converted to LEDs at your brake lights then the system won't pull enough current and that's why your ABS light would come on at 36mph.
That is contrary to every single other bit of info I have found online. Just reading other people's info but this post from here indicates "K" for the IDI turbo engine
https://www.oilburners.net/threads/buying-a-idi-turbo-what-do-i-look-for.82791/page-2...
https://images.craigslist.org/00I0I_7OmmoU9zOw0_600x450.jpg
https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/d/gresham-1993-ford-250-supercab-73-idi/6851841613.html
Nice clean truck with low miles but the VIN tag doesn't add up for an IDI or IDI turbo unless I'm reading it wrong. I thought the 8th...
https://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/d/orangevale-2-diesel-4x4-powerstroke/6850591026.html
The guy wants 3800 OBO for an'89 with a blown headgasket which may mean he's on crack, but since he isn't gonna' get close to that price there could be some deals made. He only wants 850 for a 2wd rig...
Avoid solvents. I've never cleaned mine but I would start with something mild like the Simple Green or similar degreaser.
This is what solvents can do.
I thought about switching to a straight just for the simplicity but I do live in Prius/Tesla-land and with 3" and a muffler I still get funny looks from people. Once even a homeless guy who lives out of a car made some comment about my truck being the loudest thing he'd heard! And of course...
if you're smelling fuel then you should have a leak. If your fuel filter was wet you might have a leaky fuel heater. Check the black plug on top of the fuel filter head and see if it's wet as this seems to be a common failure point.
I've come across a lot of threads where people used Explorer seats since the junkyards tended to have plenty. Good condition OEM buckets are tough to find. Mine are ok but the foam is pretty beat though I seem to remember a thread where someone used carpet padding to reinforce the seat to help...
I had an issue with one Airlift bag where the threaded fittings on the bottom would detach from the bag when I was unloaded, the bag was only at 10psi, and going over even the smallest of bumps. FWIW the threaded metal fitting that the top and bottom bolts attach to was only a knurled fitting...
OK, found part of the problem. The u-joint that connects driveline to the rear pinion yoke has some play and I see a wet spot by one of the u-joint caps. I'm guessing the u-joint failed yesterday and the vibration has screwed up something else. Any ideas what else might have failed? At this...
I did use 4x4 a few times that day but the vibration was happening while in 2 wheel drive.
Luckily I have someone picking me up for work today so I won't have time to fuss with it until later.
Drive shaft seems tight and was actually the first thing I checked. No play at any of the u-joints or carrier bearing.
And as to death wobble--I felt the death wobble when I drove with no track bar but I'm pretty sure bushings are still good and the kingpin assembly is solid.
Clutch was a LUK single mass with new flywheel and has been fine for 25k or so--admittedly they did screw up the throwout bearing. Throwout was making a a fair amount of noise so brought it back and they fixed it, or at least made the noise stop. Now come to think of it I did have a...
No vibration while parked and idling. While parked and idling if I push in the clutch the ticking seems to get louder. I found an old post from icanfixall who suggested dumping a quart or two of ATF in the oil to address a stuck lifter. I had a sticky lifter o
n an old F150 and from time to...
Well dangit. I was doing a couple dump runs today when I noticed the truck just didn't feel right and seemed to be suddenly vibrating more. Luckily the vibration didn't get really bad until I was almost home. I could feel the vibration in the steering wheel very pronounced and even my flatbed...
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