As far as I know, unplugging the advance / high idle doesn't hurt anything, it'll just take a little longer to warm up. Mine sounds like an angry jackhammer above 1500rpm if the advance is still on, so I unplugged it and I haven't noticed any negative effects.
Are you willing to part with the hydroboost pedal by itself? If so, how much? I am very interested in it if you are.
Edit: if you don't want to break it up I'll buy the entire setup, but I would ideally like to just get the pedal so I can buy a fresh remanned booster.
I'll throw my +1 in for Redhead. It's probably the single best thing I've done to my truck, it felt like a brand new truck with the new box on it. Worth every penny.
$240 per side, without shackles or U-bolts. But the shipping is free, so that helps.
I looked up the part number Betts gave me over at SD Spring. They have the same part number listed, weight ratings, etc, for $138 per side. With the associated hardware and shipping, it'd be around $440...
I must have missed it, woops. Thanks!
I called them again today, this time I got someone helpful. They told me I had 3 options:
#1: 2360# Capacity per side, 4720# total
#2: 2575# capacity per side, 5150# total. He told me this was the most popular choice.
#3: 2755# per side, #5510...
The hunt continues! One local shop was able to track down springs for me, but$275 per side with no hardware ain't gonna work.
Does anyone know offhand what the F250 front springs are rated for? The shop I talked to said my options were 2575#, 2755#, 3486#, and 4100#. I've found similar...
I have an R&D pump and injectors in my truck. The only negative thing I can say is that the O-rings they came with didn't survive installation, but that may be more due to the installation being a PITA than the O-rings being weak. If you order the R&D injectors, save yourself the headache and...
That sounds more like it, I remember you telling me about that when I was up in your neighborhood. Kinda threw me for a loop when the guy was telling me they were interchangeable, that didn't sound right to me. Most of the websites I found list their springs as being for the F250/350 too, and...
Ok, that makes more sense. It definitely didn't take 4 hours to get mine aligned. More to it than I thought :D
I don't know the true condition of the bushings; looking at what I can see from underneath the truck, I don't see anything obviously wrong with them, but that doesn't really mean a...
$450 Just for an alignment? My local guy only charges $80 to do the alignment. He said he'd do the alignment and tie rods for around $170, with me supplying the parts.
I gave Betts a call, but they said for my truck it would have to be a special order and they didn't have the information...
I really want to do the D60 swap, but the cost of acquiring the D60 + rebuilding it + getting it put on is too much for my wallet to handle right now. I don't know what to expect for the springs, but it's gotta be cheaper than going the whole 9 yards; plus, I can always pass on the springs for...
I may as well kill two birds with one stone. My tie rods are shot to hell, so since it'll be up on the rack being aligned anyways, I may as well have the 300k mile front leaf springs replaced while it's there. If it still squeaks, creaks, and pops after it gets new tie rods and springs, then I...
I'm on mobile so I can't post a link, but I used "AT-205" in my Lincoln when the oil filter adapter started leaking. It seemed to stop (or significantly slow) the leak, I haven't checked up on the car recently but I haven't noticed any fresh stains either. Beats the hell out of trying to...
Are you looking for just regular ol' OEM-style replacements, or do you want to upgrade? Both LMC and Bronco Graveyard have replacement OEM-style headlights for sale, but I don't know how well put together they are vs the ebay stuff.
If you're looking to upgrade, there are a few different...
That's awful nice of you, thanks :D
I got everything put back together. I took the easy route and bought a supposedly "new" (it's not new) injector from NAPA, everything went smoothly from there. The truck is back up and running, and I'm down to 2 minor leaks instead of 8 big ones. I'll know...
And now things have gone from bad to worse. I took the old injector out, and the copper washer didn't come out with it. I'm trying to fish it out with my mini picks, but no luck so far. Anyone have some tips on how to deal with this?
Changing that seal requires dropping the transmission and removing the torque converter (great time to replace it with a low-stall converter, if you're unsure how old your current TC is). It's the Front Pump Seal, I got my replacement here, since the OEM front pump seal is known to be failure prone.
Thanks for the advice guys. I'll pull the injector out later today and see if I can work any magic on it. I did briefly try to file it yesterday, but that was with the injector still in the truck, I probably did more harm than good there. I'll see how it looks today and decide where to go from...
Heya fellas. I finally worked up the courage to tackle my return lines today... take a guess how well that went LOL
Everything was going way too smoothly, right up to the part where I'm reconnecting the metal fuel lines to the injectors. I managed to get 7 of them back on with just my...
I can't help with the code 99, but as far as the hard shifting, if you adjust your TPS a little bit more you should be able to soften up the shifts. I had mine set in the upper region of 1.2v (my cheap multimeter doesn't have a second decimal place, but it was close to 1.3v) and the shifts were...
I would definitely recommend the Fleet Charge, just you won't have to worry about it eating any seals / solder / whatever coolant likes to eat. I'm running it in my truck and I haven't had any problems with it, I just check the fluid and SCA levels every now and then and leave it alone.
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