If you use something other than mineral, use POE. It bridges R12 and R134a. Not sure about all the newer fancy refrigerants. Hell there were some guys using cans of duster or something similar to charge their systems, it might have been r1234a or something inside.
I would just re- oring...
Check your air filter too. Black means unburnt fuel is being dumped in and back out the exhaust. Maybe you floored it when it started missing?
Blue means your burning oil, rings are probably worn. Grayish white is just it warming up.
Shouldn't use ether if your glow plugs are still plugged in...
Idi only needs 1 wire to run. Ac compressor 1 wire. Obv oversimplifying but still. Alternator can be 1 wire. No clue on auto stuff or the electric speedo/tach stuff. I'd adapt/cut/splice the existing in my opinion.
Glow plugs, you could add a dash button to do em manual, or tap into key on like...
They are crap, but you can run a cone filter off the intake hole going to the cold air hose.
Assuming you meant the huge rectangle box. They dont seal up for crap between the air filter, turbo, etc.
Meaning Boost leaks, and gunk getting past the filter. I used an ats intake snail to adapt to...
All systems leak sooner or later, when the orings get brittle. There are some refrigerants that work better but are flammable, r600 I think is one. Some people scoff at flammable refrigerants but a lot of the other crap in your vehicle is too...
A cdr is supposed to provide relief for crankcase pressure, if you have a lot of oil coming through it can be a sign of engine wear, bad rings if I recall.
You'll get some oil from any of them though.
Going ain't the problem, stopping can be. If you got someone smart to drive in front of you like a pilot car to keep aholes from cutting you off you're golden.
I hope your trailer has brakes that work :angel:
get a good turbo and a smoke puff limiter, that'll clean you right up. Soot comes from incomplete combustion, a turbo will clean it up a lot, dial back on the fuel OR get the smoke puff limiter installed on your fuel pump, and free up the intake and exhaust as much as you can will minimize soot...
I used loctite adhesive, 3000 psi stuff that says it works on glass. I can't remember if it was specifically the mirror glue or if it was a gel super glue. Definitely not an epoxy, my money is on gel loctite super.
Take the metal mounting tab off the mirror, slather it in glue, use blue...
Gotcha, thanks for the clarification. The older I get the more I forget!
Another popular upgrade is 921 valve springs, stiffer than stock.
Everything everyones said covers most of the engine upgrades that I can recall.
The bottom end is stout. The top end flows well but a new cam will help. Dont really need any head work, they flow better than PSD heads.
The head bolts or studs are a weak point, the heads will lift above 10 or 12 psi in short order. Recently Wes or somebody floated the idea that 7.3 head...
Looks good to me, I think 3 is plenty. Use that K&N till you're done with it, gotta keep it oiled up, it's a PITA otherwise crud gets into the engine.
Donaldson 6637 filters are what most people use on the newer diesels, it's what I got too. It feels a little more restrictive than a cone filter...
Timing can help, an intercooler will help too. You already cleaned up the exhaust, but you might be able to improve on the intake side. Any restrictions are your enemies.
My truck had the real crappy banks box that didnt seal good, used crappy filters, etc. I finally found an ATS intake snail...
You CAN turn the fuel screw too far. I like 1050 as my max, I dont trust it to be 100% accurate and don't need to do some engine work.
It'll dribble a cup or two of diesel out, put some rags under and a vessel to capture what you can if you give a crap.
If you can see the gear end of the pump...
You can short the two big posts on the relay if you're stranded or wanting to help verify it's a bad relay.
The controller on these trucks is very... rudimentary. If even 1 plug is loose or dead it'll cycle the relay a few times. If any of the several connections is corroded it can act up too.
Mine does the same. Sounds terrible clutch out neutral. Just fine driving and clutch in.
I was told the fork may be bent, I have bigger fish right now like the rear tank rusting and passenger door jamming into the fender...
Here we go, top picture shows the black press-fit insert that directs power with the white plastic/sprung metal thing. Clean all those contacts and it's good to go! A "toothpick" comes down from the switch head and temporarily pushes the axis to hit the other wire before going back to rest on...
It may be real easy to test, remove the rubber floor covering over the switch and you can get to its harness. Center goes to the other two wires to swap between high and low from what I understand. In my switch with playing with it, it looks like its activating a relay, because it returns to...
It was the foot switch, I pulled the plug and jumped it, voila headlights. Plugged it back in and out with some contact cleaner and the pins' holder popped off.
I took the whole switch out and it had corrosion galore, so I used a file to clean the contacts on both the pinout and the rocker...
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