On the front diff there is no drain plug. Once the seal is broken you'll have to remove it from the axle housing to clean and reseal it. To remove it you'll have to pull the axle shafts out and remove the two large bolts that thread into it on the left side.
When I rebuilt mine I sleeved all eight cylinders and had the block decked so I needed the reduced height pistons. I still have the box mine came in on the shelf and its 144171WR-STD for standard bore. For oversize you'd replace the STD with 020, 030, etc. These are old part numbers though and...
Mahle makes reduced height pistons for decked blocks which would lower compression slightly with an unmilled deck surface, although I think they're only .010" lower than stock and that's not going to net much of a drop. I've heard you can't machine much off the top of them either for risk of...
Ditto on this. I had the same thing happen with the mirror on one of my trucks. I used Right Stuff and stuck it back on. Its been holding for at least 15 years now. 3M Window Weld works well too, but it only comes in a large caulk tube and doesn't keep very long once the tube has been opened.
Re-reading your original post...are you installing a different pinion/ring gear or carrier? If all you did was remove the spider gears and install a lunchbox locker into your original carrier with the original pinion and ring gear you shouldn't have to go through setting up the gears again.
BillaVista has some excellent pages on the Dana 60 and how to set up gears:
http://www.billavista.com/tech/Articles/Dana_60_Front_Axle_Bible/index.html
http://www.billavista.com/tech/Articles/Gear_Setup_Bible/index.html
All of the Dana 60s I've ever set up had the shims installed under the bearings, between the bearing and carrier. I made a pair of setup bearings out of a set of used ones by using a flap wheel to hone out the center of the bearing race so they can be easily slid on and off by hand without using...
I've seen a few dealer installed AC units in these trucks over the years and all of them had the Ford emblem on the control panel like that, so I'm guessing that's what yours is too.
I have 3.55 gears, ZF 5 speed and a naturally aspirated 7.3 with 33 inch tires. On shorter drives like back and forth to work I average 15 or 16. On longer highway drives I can easily hit 18 if I'm running empty with flat roads.
I've installed several of the Tugger kits and I love them. Nice firm shift without making it harsh. Another upgrade I do is the Alto Powerpack kit on the intermediate clutch.
I've done the swap on two of my trucks now and its a complete bolt in. The only exception is '85 and older trucks lack the mounting holes for the track bar bracket but those are easy enough to drill. To do it right you'll need:
Axle
Springs (Don't use the TTB springs, the ride will be extremely...
I ended up going with Peak Final Charge. I picked up 8 gallons at Menard's over the weekend and with the 11% rebate it ended up being a little over $10 a gallon.
Mine does the same thing. I have a mechanical gauge hooked up and it will run all day long at 195-200 on flat roads with no hills. Pulling a trailer up a long grade I have to keep a close eye on it though because it will heat up quickly. I've had it at 230 many times but as soon as I get back on...
My nearest Fleet Farm has this stuff for $14.50 a gallon:
https://www.peakhd.com/product/final-charge/oat-extended-life-coolant-antifreeze/
From their website:
Anyone use it or familiar with it?
What kind of coolant are you guys running in your trucks? In the past I've always used the plain green antifreeze mixed 50/50 with distilled water and added several quarts of SCA until the test strips showed I was in the safe range. I'm due for a coolant change so I'm looking at the precharged...
If you're not pulling the pistons out I'd leave it alone and run it. The old rings are already seated so there's no point in scuffing the cylinder walls. But, if you're removing the pistons and replacing the rings with new ones they'll never seat properly on a glazed cylinder wall so you'd have...
Rings should be gapped correctly out of the package but its always best to check a few just to make sure the ends aren't butting together. Place one at the top of the cylinder, then using an inverted piston slide it down the bore and measure the end gap with a feeler gauge.
I like to use hot...
I don't think a regular cup style plug will work. These use the concave style plugs and as I remember there's a lip around the inside edge of the hole. You set the plug into the hole, then dent the center in to expand the sides out. Its been years since I replaced any so I don't know who still...
I had a deckover flatbed gooseneck loaded with scrap and tipped the scales at a little over 20K total between the truck and trailer. I'm guessing the truck weighs around 6500 so that's about 13,500 I was pulling. That's with no turbo, a 5 speed and 3.55 gears. It wasn't happy on the hills but it...
The 50 shields and hubs are the same, and I believe the spindles and outer stub shafts are as well. When I swapped a 60 into my truck I reused the shields off of my old 50 because they were in better condition.
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