As the title says I have a 3cyl Daihatsu engine for sale. Its a model DM950DTH. It was Marketed by Briggs & Stratton as a Vanguard 3/LC. It is turbocharged and rated for 35 hp @ 3600 rpm. This was a running engine that I pulled out of a piece of equipment when I repowered it with a Propane...
I’ve wondered for some time if the factory timing adapter would work with the tach-n-time. My thought is that it should work the same as the clamp on sensor, but possibly be more accurate. It’s just one of those things I haven’t gotten around to yet.
I seem to remember Power Torque being a “house brand” for one of the larger parts chains some while back. I can’t remember who for sure. I would bet that it’s probably private label Valeo and NOS.
I agree with adding relays if you’re running halogen bulbs, but they are unnecessary if you run LED’s. The LED’s draw half the current that a typical halogen does, and in my opinion throws much better light.
Look at the bottom line. The wording is odd, but that’s what you’re looking for. If it were listed as “Nut, Steering Linkage to Spindle” it would make more sense.
I think typical 7wire trailer cable is as follows.
White 10ga ground
Black 10ga battery pos/charge
Blue 12ga trailer brakes
Yellow 14ga reverse
Green 14ga running/tail lights
Red 14ga left turn/stop
Brown 14ga right turn/stop
Post some pics of what you have. I’ve got a couple of these at work. One is in a MQ Power 70 kva generator. The other is in a ride on concrete shot blast machine. Obviously the generator doesn’t use a clutch, but the my other machine uses a twin disc brand PTO which is an over center type...
The information is pretty complete. Has all the recall and TSB info too. The older version was a little cumbersome to navigate through, but not bad once you got used to it. I think they claim it’s all easier to find now, I just haven’t been on the new platform much. FWIW Alldata is used by a lot...
According to Dexter(the axle manufacturer) 12ga is sufficient for two axles w/ brakes. And yes, 7 conductor trailer cable is available w/ the proper wire sizes and color coding.
Do a google or DuckDuckGo search on them. Doesn’t look promising. I’ve used alldatadiy.com for years, and been pretty happy. They just changed things a bit and are now $60/yr. I‘ll be renewing my subscription soon, but it used to be $15/yr. It kinda bugs me a bit.
You don’t necessarily need a check valve just before the mechanical lift pump, as there are check valves in it. Just repair the leaking hose and run it like that.
One of the owners of the company I work for retired from GM after 30 years. So, as you can imagine he’s pretty partial towards the chevy’s. I had always been a Ford guy, and they bought that 6.4 mostly because they got tired of me talking up Fords. They also bought a ‘08 duramax dually for...
That reminds me of the ‘08 6.4 I had at work. You would be driving down the highway and and hear ding ding. Then “stop safely now” would come up on the dash display. They really meant the now part, because you only had a few seconds before it would shut down. On all but one occasion it wouldn’t...
FWIW I used some of the Amazon Basics sound deadener. It’s a knock off of the Dynamat. It worked really well. $60 got me enough to do both doors, the Ext cab, and the back of the cab. Plus I should still have enough to do the roof when I’m ready to redo the headliner.
Well, everyone has their own way of approaching a problem. For me, I have to know the what and why of a problem before deciding how to go about fixing it. So, abandoning the front tank and FSV may hide the symptoms, but does it solve anything? What if the problem is simply the shower head on...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.