what is your fuel pressure at idle? Has the regulator ever been rebuilt? Has the screen at the fuel bowl been cleaned?
pull both valve covers
with the engine running, all 8 injectors should be flowing the same amount of oil out of the spouts. No or little oil means an injector is not firing or...
So the video posted earlier was with the scanner connected? Or is it still behaving that way?
You can pull the valve covers and confirm that all injectors are flowing the same amount of oil from the oil spouts. If one injector has no oil or less than the others that would be the source of the...
sounds like a failing uvch
check engine light?
remove the oil cap and give a sniff... do you smell burnt plastic/wiring?
IPR nut could be loose
also check the ICP for oil at the pigtail
Is this a joke? slipping transmission and you want to drive it cross country?
If you really want the "free truck" (which in the long run it won't be, since it'll cost a couple grand to get it running), just find a vehicle hauler to move it in "non-running" condition and pay the bill.
on my OBS, I spliced 4" (?) PAR35 lamps to the reverse circuit and mounted them on the bumper outside of the tailgate obviously. Don't have a picture but the lamps look similar to these.
Made a big difference in reverse lighting.
Replacing the stock housings with aftermarket made a world of difference with the stock bulbs. I hate vehicles that obviously have non-DOT lighting and blind every vehicle on the road.
Agree...unplug the heater element and keep motoring. Really doesn't do much even in extreme cold (-20F) when your fuel is properly treated.
That stem removes with a crowe's foot wrench if I recall, shouldn't be too tight.
I used to run powerservice white/gray depending on the season. I've gotten away from any additives unless it's really cold (near 0F). Neither truck seems to mind the lack of additives.
level ground, steady speed with no load, a good rule of thumb is mph x 10 to get an expected EGT.
So 65mph on level ground at a steady speed unloaded should be around 650 F
Uphill throws that out the window though. Have you tested the gauge itself with shop air? Does the truck make power?
Glad you found the issue.
I'm not 100% sure but the scanner might override the chip when hooked up?
What brand/style chip is it?
If you're going to dive back into another chip, I like the hydra as you can download tuning and load the chip if you need adjustments from the vendor. I use...
drum brakes aren't that bad. Take both drums off so you have an idea of where things go when you work on one side at a time. The master cylinder is pretty straight forward as well.
I'd at least pull the drums and take a look before dropping $1800 (I'd do it myself FWIW).
With the rear wheels...
Do you get anything besides just the CEL when the truck dies....such as other indicators similar to when the ignition is switched to on (WTS, etc) ? Could very well still be the chip acting up.
If it still occurs with the chip removed....
Stalling with a CEL indicates something that the PCM...
I doubt it's fuel.
Sounds like the ignition is cutting out and you are getting the CEL and WTS lights as if the key was turned off and then on again.
I'd definately remove the chip and see if the problem goes away. Could be the ignition switch if it still does it with the chip removed.
I top off the housing to about an inch from the top with fuel additive so that when I install the filter there is a minimal amount of air in the housing. The truck probably stalled when the air was pushed through the heads.
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