If you have a new motorcraft CPS and still have the code I'd look at the contacts on the pigtail as well as the pigtail itself. They sell a kit that allows you to splice a new pigtail in place.
The barely starts, idles, then rough and stalling isn't the CPS...that's a run/not run failure...
Lack of smoke and still "poor" cold start running suggest armature clearance issues...I'd check each with a feeler gauge or at least pull a valve cover again and look for even oil flow from all of the injector spouts....no oil means the injector isn't firing.
IPR could leave you stranded, ICP sensor no...if it fails completely the PCM will just default to a given reading and you'd be able to still drive.
If it bothers you that much, I'd get a spare IPR and put it in the glove box along with your spare CPS...you do have the tools to change them on...
When it stalls, is it the roughly the same time every time? Did you check the oil level in the HPOP after it stalls out? The oil should be no less than an inch from the top when looking through the inspection plug on level ground. If the oil is lower then it could be the LPOP or pickup tube.
Was the fuel bowl full when you removed it?
Have you checked the IPR nut? If that backs off it can give wacky performance.
If it still stalls out after the new fuel pump. The next time is stalls remove the inspection plug of the HPOP and see if the is oil no further and an inch from the top.
115k is increadibly low miles for injector or engine problems unless the service history is spotty.
I'd still try removing the EBPV from the equation...if that valve is closed you will have ZERO power.
fuel side I've used powerservice (gray/white) as well as howes. Never had a problem with gelling aside from when they first switched to ULSD (probably a bad batch). I also toss in a quart (1oz/gal) of wally world two cycle oil.
oil side I use archoil with every other oil change
when it starts, does it act like it is running on 4 cylinders? In the video when you raise the idle speed are you giving it a lot of pedal with little response? If so it's probably a faulty UVCH
first guess is the EBPV...if it is still operational (not gutted...a great mod btw) I would disconnect the rod going the EBPV and wire it open. See if the truck runs better cold.
second guess would be the in-tank screens...have they ever been cleaned? Have you measured fuel pressure under load...
On both my trucks I've had 2 CPS failures and both times it threw a CEL or SES light for what it's worth. I guess CPS are cheap enough to throw a part at it these days.
totaldieselperformance.com has a nice "economy" tune for the hydra chip that sips fuel until you go more than 50% throttle...then it pulls quite nicely. That might be what your looking for aside from the straight off idle tranny killer tunes.
As mentioned you'd probably be ok, but why risk it?
Stock my OBS pretty much maxes out at 1100 degrees which it can take all day long.
However, mine is an automatic where it will downshift at some point....a manual trans you could end up being in too tall of a gear for the load.
could be "quick disconnect fittings" for the fuel lines just above the drivers wheel well. If they leak you'd smell it and not be obvious. However that wouldn't effect your starting condition.
Next time prior to starting I'd remove the fuel bowl lid and check that it is full....it probably is.
sounds good. I've seen these engines run when pouring out fuel or having zero fuel pressure....it'll still "run" but have now power due to lack of fuel flow.
I'd be surprised if you are truly losing prime with no obvious leak.
Look carefully in the valley of the engine, especially underneath the fuel pump. They have a weep hole when they begin to fail that drips fuel. Best bet is to clean everything really well and fire it up....look for leaks and don't touch the fan blade!
amazing that you went from no 4x4 to a no start. Something shorted when you switch the GEM. I know it's at the shop now but it's gotta be something along the lines of playing with the GEM module.
Can any of those scanners connect to another truck of similar vintage? I’ve only used autoenginuity and know that it connects to PSDs
SES light means the PCM has power and a stored code, you just need to figure how to connect to it.
Do you have power to the cigarette lighter? I believe it’s...
SES light should indicate a stored code. Hopefully you can connect and read the code(s)
What type of scanner do you have? Some won't work on PSD and give the impression of no communication to the PCM when in fact it's the scanner.
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