No smoke with the rough idle? Not even grayish/white?
I would think the timing may be retarded...when it does this jump the timing advance solenoid with 12v and see if it diminishes.
Mine does this but I have a worn, 100k IP.
There is additional info to be had by searching.
I removed the vacuum pump by loosening the three bolts, 2 of which are held captive by the pulley.
(You must remove the pump and put it on your work bench, this cannot be done installed on the engine.)
Removed the bolt from the rear of the...
I used the coiled spring type, exactly like the one that stripped. Made in Canada. The only difference is that I replaced the composite pulley with the steel unit.
Last week I experienced an idler pulley failure which in turn rendered the serpentine belt unservicable and smoked the tensioner pulley.
I got a new belt, idler pulley and tensioner pulley from NAPA.
Upon installation of the new belt, the bolt used to secure the pulley and compress the...
WHAT?
I replaced both rubbers that connect the CDR, one goes to the valve cover and the other connects to the intake. They are both available and I promise it's not as confusing as this thread is.
One of the rubbers is trim to fit, I can't remember which one but you will figure it out...
I'm not sure about timing after injector replacement but I would say yes, it's necessary for best performance.
The Intercooler will likely sap 2-3 psi of boost so shortening the rod will help the turbo make up for it. I would shoot for 12psi.
Mine sounds like a shrill whistle.
If you roll up a piece of paper and stick it in the filler neck the noise nearly goes away. I think this is because the threads of the filler neck are acting as flutes...does any of that make sense??
KY is good but tends to dry up and get sticky if not assembled immediately. I prefer petroleum since that is what the o-rings are designed to withstand anyway. Petroleum allows you to reposition the return line for several hours prior to starting the engine.
Picture of TC install
Anyone else's thermocouple mounted here?
The truck does have the upgraded 3" DP as to match the exhaust. FatMat is a great idea I will look into that, thanks!
I am interested in the HyperMax Cowl Induction but do not want to increase cabin noise.
I will be adjusting the wastegate to limit boost around 11-12psi to keep my heads mated to the block and hopefully decrease EGT.
During normal hot weather unloaded cruising (90-100*) the Transmission likes to mimic the engine temp and it sits at 180-200*. During the winter it is 150*.
I have seen 240* for a few minutes when fully loaded and the TC unlocked, at this point the engine temp is pegged and the ENGINE TEMP...
Thank you for the clarification, I am misrepresenting it's location. It is indeed in the drivers side crossover pipe, not the down pipe.
It has not been a sustained 13-1400* by any means, the needle makes the move and I'm off the throttle real quick! This is only when towing the Toyota's up...
Thanks for googling, I should have specified in my question...does any one else have their TC mounted in the drivers downpipe? It seems my EGT's are VERY high for where the probe is mounted.
My pyro is mounted in the drivers down pipe near the oil filter. This is where ATS recommended it be installed back when they were based in UT. It was done when the larger exhaust wheel and 3" DP were installed.
Is this wrong?
I have seen 13-1400* when towing heavy in the summer and...
Sorry to resurrect this but what year Trucks had the 130amp alternators?
RockAuto lists mine as a 130amp 3G.
My Truck is a '94 Factory Turbo 7.3 4x4 e40d
It feels great to have 2 fully functioning filler doors and necks!
The bed was used as a sprinkler/work truck so it has some dings but nothing like my original bed, plus it came lined with Rhino lining.
It also had a aux fuel tank that the guy would NOT part with and as such had...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.