Actually I don’t even know anymore, fired the truck up and the boost gauge is stuck at 17 psi! Here it is at idle in my driveway lol.
Might have to test this with a mechanical gauge. Boost might be fine
Also I really don’t think the gear is off by a tooth. And as for the cam, I installed it...
Ehhh unfortunately it looks like the gauge is working fine. I hooked my air compressor up to the sensor with 20psi on it and it was reading fine.
Judging by the lack of black sooty smoke when I’m hitting the gas hard, you’re probably right.
Sucks that it’s a fresh rebuilt 110cc pump from CDD...
PSA, fuel block off plate is NOT a good spot for your crank case venting LOL. My catch can was nearly full after my ride last night.
Catches wayyy to much oil dripping down the engine.
I really don’t have hardly any blow by off this rebuild, used the factory style rings from Mahle. Total seal...
Good point, I will start by testing the transducer with my air compressor to verify whether or not it’s working.
If it is working then I may try messing with the waste gate to see if that’s the problem.
I am breathing a sigh of relief. Got the injectors back today from Justin, installed them after work and the truck is running great now.
I have some small kinks to work out, the boost gauge isn’t working, even though I’m certain I’m producing boost.
Took it for a good hour long test ride and...
I had a slight leak from my rear tank. Ended up replacing both the front and rear with plastic tanks from gas depot. The rear tank was a disaster, there was so much rust floating inside of it.
I also replaced the fuel lines, bent 3/8” stainless lines along the frame with 6AN whips to the tank...
So I talked to Justin at R&D about my issue with the injectors, he was real cool about it. He said once in awhile there are some that are finicky and told me to send them back to him and he’ll fix them up.
Shipped them over and he fixed them right away. He said he had to replace the nozzle on...
Pitman arm pulling isn’t so bad if you have a good one. I tried using a pitman arm puller I got from Hebrew Freight on it, and that was a no go. It just bent the heck out of it. You really need a decent hardened pitman arm puller for this.
Removing and installing the power steering lines is a...
You’re not missing out. Gear box install is a **** on this truck. Getting it mounted isn’t a problem, but getting the power steering lines on are a PITA
I’m curious, where did you get your pop tester from and what fluid do you use for it?
I see some pretty cheap ones on Amazon but I’m hesistant to pull the trigger on one
This was a long time ago, and it was fixing my boss’s wife’s Lincoln Aviator. It needed new timing chains and guides. The guides had broken and left some slack in the chains.
There was a little gear thingy for the crankshaft position sensor that went on the crankshaft behind the front cover of...
Dunno where to begin, but I’ve definitely done some **** and made some big spills.
I think I’ve gotten it all in my face and in my mouth to at some point. Anti-freeze, diesel, gasoline, oil…
Atleast the anti-freeze tastes okay
Update on the motor, I took both valve covers off, everything looked great. Then I did a compression test, all cylinders were between 470-490 psi! Great news!
However, I observed a strange phenomena on 2 cylinders. When ever the engine cranked over I had air blowing out of the return lines!
I...
So I haven’t had a minute to look into yet, but I’m thinking there’s a possibility it could be injector knock.
At idle or high rpm when not moving the knock isn’t that present. But when hitting the gas under load, like driving on an incline it’s pretty bad
It really sounded like rod knock to...
Update on the doomsday motor, it may have had its own doomsday LOL.
Fired it up and timed it, and the thing was sounding really great. Took it down the road and made it a mile before I heard a loud rattling/knocking noise.
Turned around and made it home, couldn’t really pinpoint the noise...
Interesting. I don’t see why that would be a problem. Definitely a better option than to put the injector return into that spot, i won’t get any air drawn in this way.
Just wondering how that may affect the pressure regulation if the inlet pressure to the pump is higher than the outlet pressure...
My issue is that I’ve got 2 tanks so I’d imagine I’d have to tee the2 returns up before the FSV somewhere. I will try tee’ing them together along the frame and run a larger line for the regulator bypass and see what kind of pressure I have.
The 1/4” line I had coming off the regulator bypass is...
I have an idea and was wondering what your thoughts are. What if I plumb the regulator bypass straight into the return at the frame (directly to tank) and plumb the engine return into the supply just before the Holley pump?
I’m thinking that should be at very little pressure. My only concern...
Unfortunately the valley pan drain seems to drain everything down this adapter plate and it goes right over the starter. It’s definitely an ugly spot if you’ve had some leaks.
Okay I think you’re right and my theory about the FSV is bunk. I pushed compressed air at low pressure through my return line no problem to the tank.
Next, I hooked my gauge up into the return system at the IP and turned on the electric pump. With the steady flow leak at injector #7, I had...
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