Alright alright alright
It was the cable. The cable visibly looked fine, but it was super hard to move. The cable mount broke off at the heater control unit. The plastic on the cable itself broke. This is because the cable was so sticky.
I was able to free the cable up by cutting tiny slits in...
Anyone able to send me a page of the factory manual where they detail the procedure for replacing these bushings? I have seen some images of the manual for later model year trucks and it looks like ford has a special tool for removing/installing them. I'm looking for the part numbers of the...
I replaced mine with 3486lb Husky springs from Rock auto. Much better ride and the bump stops sit about 2.5” higher than yours.
They actually lifted the front end just a touch higher than needed and I’ll have to install a balljoint offset to fix the negative camber. Which is not really an issue...
Replaced rusty straight pipe with 3” exhaust.
Still have a leak to chase up near the turbo.
This week - changed oil with 10-40 delo
Topped off rear diff... took 2.5 quarts lol
Changed fluid in ZF5 with mercron V
Topped up front diff and xfer case
Front and rear diff are getting geared to 3.55...
I posted in my project thread that I need to swap out my axle pivot bushings in the '89 F250. I see online how to beat the small lip inwards off of one side of the bushing and then press it out with a ball joint press.
My question to those who have done this, how difficult is it to get the...
Thanks! I did check that line and it looks to have been replaced at some point. I spent a good hour under there last night crawling around with a flashlight.
My guess is that is exactly why they are so pricey... people who own the newer vehicles are more willing to pay the $$. It’s hard to sink $350 into a valve like this for a 30 year old truck
Anyone happen to know offhand the size of the metal brake lines? I need to replace the line that runs from the proportioning valve to the rubber line on the right front brake line. Its looking a little.. crusty
They do continue to settle out.. noticeably better from when I got it.
Also, the axle pivot bushings are more roached than originally thought. Those are getting replaced ASAP.
I spent about an hour under the truck just poking around this evening. Also managed to change the fluid in the ZF5.
Yea that does not seem right... but the connectors look to be in the right places and the part number does match what I am looking for. Looking at pics of a new ford valve, I can't tell a difference. The rivets etc.. look identical
Looking at options to replace my leaking FSV. Anyone used one of these inexpensive ebay valves?
Appears I can
a) buy ford replacement for $300+
b) just get rid of it
c)buy aftermarket and rig up the lines/wiring a bit
d) buy this aftermarket part that should bolt right up for $70...
Yeah I had a shop down the street throw all the parts in and do the alignment. Its off by a fairly significant amount. The front end sits a lot higher now. The shop owner said if it does not settle out in a few weeks I should put some adjustable cams in the upper balljoint mount. I spent a...
They are 3486lb springs part # 43498 on rock auto
Appears there are also some more expensive 2750lb springs that is probably what I should have installed.
Oh and the axle pivot bushings actually look fine.
THanks! And thanks for your help!
By the way the front springs lifted the front end a bit too much. They’ve only been on there a week. I’m wondering if they’ll sag a bit or if I need to install some offset ball joints to get the camber correct.
New wheels and tires. The wheels are 16x7 AR Outlaw II with a 3.7” backspace. Tires are 265/75/16 Corsa Highway Terrain. I usually buy name brand tires but these were only $92 each so I figured what the heck. They are E rated.
Well Wes was on the money as usual. Turns out I had slightly buggered the threads on the new injector. This was only obvious after I pulled it out. Running fine with the old injector.
I get what you are saying. The cap is seated, its just the diesel fuel making it look like that. I cleaned it up and checked.
I cleaned the flare with some fine 320grit emery cloth. I bent the line a little just to make sure it was going in extra straight. Got the cap good and tight... and...
There is a very fine groove running around the injector line flare probably from overtightening it. Think I should try and dress it with some very fine emery cloth?
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