Welcome to the forum.More information on this air leak is required to better help you. In the mean time look at the return line caps.If any appear to be wet then yes. Replace them. Get the area clean before opening anything up. A tip about return line kits.Some a much better than others and we...
Kind of wonder why opening up the pumps was not the first suggestion... BTW EVERY oil pump from ANY idi fits all 6.9 and 7.3 idi engines. And the oem pumps are better than the Melling.
Then sell off the non rusted pieces to anyone in the salt belt???? You know your killing the salt belt guys when you "find and cannibalize" these great trucks..
Do a search for the firewall repair pieces. Ford used to sell them but they discontinued them. Terrapin manufacturing now makes them. Jason is a member here.
Save yourself some shipping fees and do not ship the exhaust manifold. Every idi engine will use the same exhaust manifold on the passenger side of the engine. Its the drivers side that can be a problem. the van engine drivers side wont work in the trucks and vice versa.
I do not have a pic of the mag probe and yes.. It fits the TALL skinny hole at the damper.Goggle J33300 and look at the pics of your meter to see what the mag probe and clamp probe plus harness look like...
Very sorry to tell you your meter is nearly not repairable because of the red display...
Kent Moore sells the parts you need. These meters are well supported too by them. Sadly your magnetic probe is missing and that cost is about $375.00 new. Then the clamp probe harness and clamp are a separate item and the harness is $175.00 new as the clamp is around $75.00. Sorry for the...
My G code injectors when I pop tested them from new in the box were either 2100 or 2200 lbs pop pressure. This is why I posted what I posted about the pressures. Nobody touched my two sets of G codes before me. I verified these pressures on my Rotunda injector tester.
Front tank sender removal is easy because the tank has a bevel on the driveshaft side that allows you more working room. Blow off the sender so none or very little dirt gets in the tank when you remove it. note the square gasket under the sender and also note the tank has a locating pin so the...
My built engine ran G codes for a long time. I actually purchased two complete sets. My mileage was never what I expected. So I purchased a set of BB codes from Russ... I found an increase in hp... Torque and mileage. I did time the BB codes to the same timing as the G codes so don't think my BB...
Do you have a turbo and does the CDR dump into a valve cover?? Some turbo designs will do this. Otherwise you may have a bad set of valve guide seals or someone before you replaced this head.
Those are very nice tool kits. I have purchased 2 of them. Normally they will not be complete like missing the fan nut wrench or the pump timing tools but... those can be purchased on other ebay listings like many of us have done. Theres nothing like having the right tool when working on these...
Having a 92 engine why go to the manual glowplugs?? The controllers work VERY well. My guess is your glowing way too long and no need to glow twice. BTW what glow plugs are you using???
What you can do is "open up" the vent so more air quickly escapes when refueling the tanks. Look into the fill line.See the inner metal tube.. Thats where the fuel fills the tank from. Now ALL the displaced air MUST escape the tank somehow. Well its supposed to escape thru a TINY slot near the...
Welcome to the forum. Nice rig and a steal of a great price. Godd to see it has a better engine than the crack prone early 6.9 engine had. Might be a good idea to add 2 quarts of atf fluid to the fuel.that way you might be able to clean out the fuel system. when these fuel systems sit like yours...
Your idle timing means nothing. You need to forget about what you see at idle because its not something that changes anything. Please use the clamp mode timing with the mag probe and the clamp probe. this is called the pulse method of timing our engines. No more "looking" for a timing mark with...
This is exactly why I mentioned about clamping the lines. These have always been a historically expensive valve. Maybe a trip to a walk in and pick wrecking yard may be the easiest choice. you will still need a way to stop the flow of fuel. No matter how you remove the lines... Fuel probably...
where are you jacking up the engine from? Try the edge of the oil pan. Not directly under the oil pan as that can dent in the bottom ... You hopefully understand these motor mounts have a left and right side plus... they have a front and back direction. I recall there is an L and R on the mounts.
Kenny you can take the oem tank switching valve apart and clean out whats holding it open to both tanks. you need to drill out the 4 rivets and then use self tapping screws to close it up again. It has been done before. Both tank lines will need to be plugged or clamped off or you will drain the...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.