You can source an electric vacuum pump that will work, but all the ones I've seen that are substantial enough cost more than a hydroboost setup! I can't remember but there was something available in the medium duty truck market. I think it was in the $400-500 range. Been a while since I looked...
The only negative I've ever heard is it will wash off high spray areas, but that's true of most things. That and some people don't like the smell. I don't mind it but it's certainly "different" if you're not familiar with it lol. It's lanolin based.
I have first hand experience with that, there should be a few pictures of my hood in here somewhere.
I'm struggling with this honestly. From what I've read the BEST way to paint it is to wait until it's "seasoned" for 6 months. I certainly don't want it peeling off. If I do end up painting it...
No need to apologize.
I honestly don't know what degree of protection it will give me. I know the guardrails here hold up pretty well and they get sprayed by the plows all winter long. The guardrails are dipped at the exact same plant that will be dipping my frame.
I don't plan on driving this...
Removed the front shackle bushings today. Plan is to dip the shackles with the frame and put poly bushings in. I like when the bushings are old enough the rubber is shot so the bushings pop right out.
My only thoughts would be hose routing or an issue with the steering gear then.
You could always pull the return off the hydroboost and make sure it's not returning much fluid. My understanding is they should really only return a little bit of fluid when actuating the pedal. If it's returning...
Nice batch of blasted brackets ready for galvanizing.
And nice shiny black rear fuel tank skid plates, brake hose brackets, and exhaust hangers.
With any luck I'll be dropping the frame off next week.
We had to drop the wife's car off yesterday for recall work. They close at 5 and she doesn't get home until 4:30. They're 45min away. Rather than driving out to sign for it and then come get the wife and go back for the car.....
Decided to just tow it home. I'm quite happy with how the old 250...
I'm not sure it couldn't, but I didn't want to get it over there and have them tell me they wouldn't dip it because it's too thin. I'm not going to be able to get there until next week because of my schedule and if they wouldn't do it I'd have to have it blasted again by then before painting. I...
Frame is ready to go to galvanizing.
First coat of primer on the fuel tank skid plate and exhaust hangers. The parts too thin to send to galvanizing.
Nice clean southern frame. Inside the shock mounts looks like this. I'm hoping the day blaster can clean them up quick tomorrow.
Added...
Yes, my local international dealer had group 31s for just under $100 in 2019 when the local auto parts stores were at $200 each! They were only 750cca but that's a significant difference.
There's an ACDelco branded parts store about 40min away from me that seems to have the best prices local to...
I'm pretty sure that's the same ones I've been running in my F250 for a few years. I'll have to double check. My truck had no trouble starting in winter with one single 1000cca battery so as long as everything is in good shape you really should be fine. When it'll come bite you is if you have...
I should know. I've spent enough time drooling over your bullnose LOL
I hate rust falling in my face when I'm working on a vehicle. This should help significantly when it's done!
My only knowledge of those motors is a couple guys that had to have their engine replaced at 50k. That could possibly have been the smaller v8 though I'm not sure. They were both F150s. It was enough to stop me from considering one. Yes I'm sure there are thousands of them that are fine, but.....
We got started blasting the frame today. I was hoping to get it blasted a couple weeks ago but the one guy didn't really want to do it so I had to get a different guy to do it.
Limited pictures because I don't want to show customer material in our shop.
Blasted half of it and flipped it on...
Did you ever mess around with the timing specifically when running the WMO? I'm wondering if a timing change may have made a difference.
I noticed a huge difference in timing on mine when running a strong mix if WMO vs straight diesel. I can't remember exactly how much but I think it was around...
That was my first thought too. Looks like rust flake though from the picture.
I have a wrecker that looks in similar condition. The frame will literally flake off in your hands.
Yeah I'm a little bit skeptical too!
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