In my opinion, that's when deep aluminum pans can come in useful. Aluminum sheds heat faster and since it hangs lower, it gets more airflow when driving. Even if you stop and park, it should still cool down better despite the larger fluid capacity. The C6 RV B&M deep pan would cool down a lot...
I probably won't be putting this on until I come back to Arkansas early next year, but this price was too good to pass up, for $200 (+$20 in tax) including shipping on eBay.
It's $373+tax new. o_O...
I thought I saw a drain on this, but maybe the pan was swapped at some point, or I was mistaken. I'm currently too sick to go lay on the ground to look around for it.
That's why I was babying the van so much a month ago, it kept approaching 220, presumably due to the AC condenser being a poor cooler.
The fluid does seem dark, it probably needs to be replaced. Who in how hot it was getting before I had a gauge telling me how hot it was getting!
I hate pan...
Well in the case of the RV, the original intent was to read the TC output, and I was given bad advice by the overpriced transmission shop in regards to cooling. The owner said bypass the rad cooler and run only the aux cooler. TC output was in the red zone, like 300+. I had gone north from...
The thing about the TC output is that the fluid temperature is only that temperature a matter of seconds, from the time it leaces the TC until it gets cooled. ATF has a time frame for how long it can hold up at higher temperatures, unless we're talking crazy high numbers that shouldn't be...
Yeah. Pretty big mistake.
I'm debating buying the 'wrong' line that looks so very similar to the correct one. It has more steel line before hose at the condenser end, but otherwise would probably work. Either that or hope a proper one pops up on eBay, some day.
Rotated eBay pic:
Proper...
Even assuming 19N617/YF-1515 would work, and i think it would unless it's too short, I'm still unable to find 19972, #5 in that:
Edit: this looks soooo close but it's listed as being for older 5.0/5.8
Ok, I think "19867" is a bit useless, because they referred to the for multiple sections.
This diagram is showing the engine side at the top, and aux side on the bottom. It's pointing out 19867 at both ends. I missed highlighting some but you get the idea:
This is 19867 at the engine side...
Futher confusion... this shows a totally different suction line (2) part number, 19N617 instead of 19867 like above. But at least it's still showing an FS6 compressor and 19972 discharge line.
Another diagram, and it agrees with 19972 / 19N617
Help me out here. Looking to source the seemingly very rare ac lines that are totally missing from my 89 E350 with aux (rear) ac.
I found original Ford factory PDFs listing parts and showing diagrams but they conflict with each other.
E8UZ-19867-B (YF-1514)
was r/b (replaced by)...
all you need is a toggle switch for the fuel shut off solenoid, a manual push button for the glow plugs such that you have the + on the switch (easier on 6.9; 7.3 needs a little more modding to the wiring), and a starter push button to the starter relay on the fender. no need to even touch the...
If doing 2500 oci yes, maybe I'd go with that. for 5000, I'd go with the other because it has better filtering media
i have the $10 one standing by despite doing 3500ish ocis. I might go back to 2500 like I did with the RV but we'll see
The factory spec is 5000 for normal driving, 2500 for towing/heavily loaded/dusty conditions. I always did 2500 (except once 3000) for the motorhome because it was always heavily loaded and towing.
Doing around 3500 on my current van.
Buy this instead. Seems to be made by Wix and is very good quality. $10
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/select/filters/engine-oil-filter/80c2d8dbb188/microgard-select-oil-filter/mgd5/msl51734/v/a/5361/automotive-truck-1995-ford-f-350?pos=1
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