Hey guys! I'm overhauling a 10.25" rearend and found this guy on Amazon used(same cover as Dorman PN 697-725 but from Yukon. PN: YP C5-F10.5)
. Figured it would be nice addition for when I start towing in the AZ heat. Also, my current cover is bent and leaking. All the searching i've done...
I hear ya. I just completed my 38 gallon F26E tank swap as well but i'd love to to get the midship tank working with manual valves as well. If you were to get a bad batch of fuel you have a backup or it's great for WMO/VMO setups. Then the fuel selector valve wiring is just used to switch...
@Austin86250 Just curious why not just keep the wiring untouched incase you decide to add the Midship tank back at a later time? Whenever WW3 starts popping off it might be worth it to have a spare tank... just a thought. At 38 gallons in the rear plus 19 for the midship tank that puts you in...
This cracks me up lol. My fuel gauge reads almost exactly like this. I set mine to read max E with about 5 gallons in a 38 gallon tank. I did this since I have no baffles in the tank and when the fuel sloshes it could suck air. The jury is still out if my gauge reads way past the F mark...
Once everything was prepped, in it went. I was able to notch my skid plate and still utilize my 4" exhaust out the back with extra chiny 5" tip. Normally I wouldn't run a sump but this truck never gets hardcore wheeling. It's mainly a highway traveler with the occasional mild offroad so i'm...
Been keeping busy in this 108 degree weather we've been having in AZ :fan:
Pulled the skid plates one at a time to cut the sump hole out so I didn't have to fully pull the fuel tank until I was ready. Had to weld up the rear most cross member since the yay hoos before cut the rivets. The...
I can't tell you how to fix this but I will tell you you're not alone with wiring nightmares caused by previous owners. To this day i'm still trying to unscrew up and decipher what the previous crackheads were thinking/doing to my truck. Good luck to you sir. I'm sure some others with way...
I'm literally about to install my 38 gallon tank as well. As far as where you should place the float arm exactly is up to you. My gauge never read complete empty since it started sucking air due to the fuel sloshing at that point. Another issue is when I fill my tank it reads overfull for...
I used the Felpro black rubber ones torqued @ 96in. lbs. on my baby 1/4 torque wrench. Not a drop. I also took those little triangle guys and hammered them flat on an anvil before install. They may just need to be gone over evenly.
@The_Josh_Bear It's definitely a smaller filter than i'd like so it'll absolutely need to be cleaned more often. When it's clean it has great power and is much quieter than the cone filter sitting on top of the engine like before. You could definitely hear the turbo whistle with the old setup...
@IDIBRONCO It was definitely a gamble putting this used motor in from god knows were but it's turned out to be a runner. I was able to bust out this air intake today. It's a mixure of the factory ram air duct and a modded inline filter. The idea was to get the coolest air into the turbo vs...
I agree. It'll spin fast, LOUD (ear plugs recommended/safety glasses) But it will also ensure you don't have too much ATF in the cylinders before the first fire up.
@Cubey I was thinking the same thing but MAN they want a pretty penny for those pumps now. Cheapest one is 150$ plus tax same with Autozone. I was able to warranty my Dorman vacuum pump through Rockauto. I installed back in 2022. I was able to use the limited lifetime warranty...whatever...
This is hilarious. I had to ask about the low vacuum light and how to know it's working and guess what? NOW MY dash brake light is staying on! I guess my spare used backup vacuum pump I swapped out in the desert is finally craping out. UHH! I definitely need to get another ASAP with a...
I'm cheap so I'd totally soak it with ATF and breaker bar it with the glow plugs out of it. If it breaks free but has a tight spot id keep rotating til it gets better. After that if it seems free i'd crank it WITHOUT the glow plugs installed/build oil pressure/prime the injectors (crack them...
@Cubey Man! And I thought losing brakes in my single cab was bad. I probably would have pooped my pants in a motorhome. Good thing the toilets close by...
Where is this warning light anyways?? All of my IDI's never worked either. Didn't even know these were a thing until my 87 IDI. It would be nice to have it working since I had the OH SHI*! moment awhile ago while getting off the freeway in Mohave desert. It's like one moment everything is...
I agree with @Old Goat. That C6 is going to kill your mileage potential by at least 2 MPG IMO from a T19 and close to 5 MPG if you had a ZF5. I have a similar truck with NA 6.9 4x4 3.54's T19 and 35's. I was calculating about 16 MPG highway (60-65 MPH) and then got about 17.5 MPG after a set...
Just wanted to give an update. The motor/turbo swap went great and I just put about 700+ miles on the clock to test it. I put it straight into the fire! Worked GREAT! Wow, that sounds weird to say now lol. Honestly, everything seems to be working very well. The worst problem, if you can...
I believe the reason the probe method is difficult is because the balancer needs to be VERY true to read correctly and consistently. As i'm sure you can see they're not always perfect especially the older they get. Most go with the timing gun. I haven't used my DTI timing gun successfully yet...
There is a specific order how everything is plugged in. I personally would power the DTI unit on it's own 12v battery to get rid of any chance of ground finding it's way through the unit. The balancer prob is plugging into the DTI unit AFTER it's been powered on and set to the correct...
I took my plastic return line cap (the one that goes into the filter head) and JB welded it shut on one side. 7.3 filter heads I just plug the hole with a pipe plug. If it's earlier 6.9 I just get the russ repair hardline delete kit which got rid of that extra port on the feed line that goes...
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