Hey fellas, in 28 years out of 30, my 1988 7.3 never Jelled the Fuel until our bitter cold SE-PA winter in 2015. A quick call to Mel suggested I put a Heat Gun at the main line going into my Baby Moose Pump (I named that Pump lol) and sure enough that got her running.
For the rest of that...
UPDATE...
so far no Coolant leaks and she is bone dry.
I hope when I look out tomorrow morning the concrete she is parked on is dry!
Thanks for all the great feedback and suggestions.
Since I purchased her new in 1988 I've done a LOT of work to this truck...she has been very good to me. Even...
Well, done...idling in driveway (held-up RPM) with heater on no leaks...time for a test drive and then cool-down.
Hoping maybe, just maybe it was the actual WP seal that was tired (12 years old) or maybe the WP Gasket.
I hope the Ole Girl is going to treat me good on this one...painful hunching...
Well...all this great feedback (very appreciated) as I just walked-in from torquing down the new Water Pump.
My Front cover shows no rust or pits like the above pic...actually looks great.
At this point I just have to follow through and HOPE...the Water Pump or even maybe the 12 year old WP...
Ugh...got a bad feeling.
The water Pump snout was not sloppy or even loose, no side play at all but just a fraction of in-out movement...the bearing does have a somewhat dry sound to it when spun by hand.
The weep hole was not wet as I was hoping however, does show a slight 'clean' dry...
Started tear-down and already have 'new' WP.
Tomorrow am when I remove the belt Pulley I sure hope that Weep-Hole is wet!
BTW...I've always used and had very good success with Permatex High Tack...what's you preferred WP sealant...
I agree the temp and pressure rise a little...suppose it's too much for the water pump Seal to handle and coolant is exiting the weep-hole.
Anyhow, I'll be digging into this project tomorrow.
*I can't believe the replacement radiator (aluminum/plastic) drain plug is un accessible...WTF!
BTW...I...
I can see how the belts are keeping the shaft snug. But when the WP failed in 2006 Belts or not there was a lot of movement at the Fan.
Still not making sense why it doesn't leak when the engine is hot...but it has to be the WP.
Looks like the only way drain the Rad, I have to drill a hole in...
Update and reply...
well, I was all over the underside and was able to snug all Water Pump Bolts...weep is coming down from behind Harmonic Balancer.
There is ZERO play at the Fan which if-so usually indicates a bad WP bearing.
Still have my auto Zone receipt...Water Pump was replaced in 5/2006...
I Fellas, been a while...hope everyone is well.
Water Pump question refresher...on my 1988 7.3 does anyone know where the water pump 'weep-hole' is located?
Looking directly at the engine is it at 12-oclock, 3-6-9? (I'm having a difficult time finding it)
Symptom...
Truck sits dead cold = no...
I can't imagine the size of that Tank...were u able to use the two bottom metal plates that the OE tank uses? Part number and did it come with a new fuel level sender too?
EDIT and ERROR...it's my long FRONT Tank that has the weep, not the rear.
Thanks for the feedback fellas!
Due to busted showerheads I dropped both tanks maybe 4 years ago...zero rust anywhere and inside of the tanks were spotless. (oddly though the underside of the truck is a rusted mess, with...
With welding or brazing...diesel fumes won't go BOOM???
Not sure how much a shop would cost to weld the hole (I'll drop the tank) vs the price of a plastic tank and it it a 'direct' replacement? Who sells them, how much?
Well, it appears my rear Fuel Tank has a slight leak where the rear support strap makes contact with the upper outer corner.
(not so bad the Fuel it hits the ground...more of a slight weep)
For sure it's NOT the Sender O-Ring or related connections...that area is bone dry.
So, if I drop the...
Oil cooler on mine since the day I bought it, new.
229,000 trouble free miles but I flush the trans every 30,000 and drop the pan, drain the converter and change the filter every 50,000
wELL, BEING THE THE TWO FRONT cAB MOUNTS ARE ROTTED
Well, being the the two front Cab mounts are rotted away there is no adjusting the fender to door gaps as they were pinching at the top of the doors (where the top hinge area is) thus why I shipped the doors back with fender washers.
The...
Well that there has been a problem...being the two front Cap mounts rotted away I had to shim the doors back, as the front Gaps got tight and almost touched the Fender.
Yes, it does first latch at upper position (in the spot where you would normally reach under the Hood to move the Lever to unlock it) then it'll click down to the lower-down position. But I can then push the Hood down about 1/4" (and spring back up) and that is where it needs to be to match-up...
He people,
the front of my hood is about 1/4 too high...when the Hood is locked-down I can push the front of the hood down further and where it needs to be to make the Fender and forward Hood edges match up.
However...when I loosened the two L & R Latch bolts the latch mechanism won't drop any...
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