Thanks Rick, one last question;
on the replacement 4-terminal Relay will the S-post also be orientated/mounted as the OEM S-terminal...being at the top?
Or, will the "S" post now be at the bottom and would the two large Terminals matter which group of wires are going to them (get my meaning?)
"When I jump the two big posts together the truck fires right up, so it's gotta be either the new fender-mounted relay, my ignition switch"
The above in bold is my scenario for almost a year...I however DID replace the column mounted Ignition Switch and it still (at times) doesn't start...I...
YES > > > use the gasket and follow the torque sequence.
The two shorter bolts go top center, you should have instructions with the reman pump...if you suspect the gasket was folded or instructions are missing take it back for another.
I use thread sealant on all the threads (just because) and...
For me (I've changed mine 4 times sine new in 1988) the worst part for me, is draining the coolant, because my block drains have never been out. I Attach a hose to the radiator drain nipple into a catch container.
You'll need a really large open-end 1-7/8 wrench to get the Fan off (get a cheap...
Glad I found this thread...I need to replace my Relay and only the 4-post Relays are being sold.
So...to be clear, the new 4-post mounts the same way as the OE 3-post Relay...just don't use the 'bottom' terminal, correct?
Well, I'm not going to sweat the Moog's as I've been impressed with their warranty and reliability...of course I could get a 'dud' part, it happens.
They have served me well and as I mentioned prior, driving a 30 year old F250 in my area AND as a daily driver is torture on brakes and steering...
Well, I replaced the Drag Link and the one Tie Rod-Arm in 2001!
The Outer Tie Rods Ends I replaced 2010, OE ball joints in 2014.
My area is ALL stop and go, and ALWAYS turning left or right (it sucks) so I can't really complain about the life I get out of the Moog Steering parts (they're taking...
Today I installed new Tie Rod ends, new Tie Rod and a new Drag Link.
Total parts cost $242.00
Return wore out Moog parts = FREE (I keep my receipts)
As meticulous and as precise as I could possibly be with measurements, after a test drive my steering steering wheel is now at 1:00 o'clock
Test...
Update...the partshouse is reimbursing the $42.00 spent on cutting the new Drums.
Two new sets were factory cut out of round and they said that was unexceptionable, and it's about making it right for the customer.
I come to find, "Silent Stop" is not the manufacture but a brand-name created by...
Both replacement Drums cut and braking is PERFECT!
Trying to get the contact number for "Silent Stop Premium Brake Parts" to bitch and request them to refund my $50 to cut their "high quality premium brake Drums"
Partshouse had two more new in box waiting for me. I wasn't about to try them again without first having them checked. I then drove directly to a friends shop and he put them on his Drum Machine and right in front of me 'we' saw they were out. The first one he tested was hitting hard in one...
^^^ true even Wagner, Bendix etc are now China, Twain made.
Anyhow, parts house stopped carrying Wagner and wants to exchange for new set of Drums.
Wish I had a Lath to see which one or maybe both are out of round.
On my other thread... I changed out my rear Hub Oil Seals, installed new wheel cylinders, brake shoes, new spring kit and Drums.
Well, 4 years ago I took a chance and installed the cheaper made in China ROTORS with new Calipers, new Pads and 20,000 miles later everything upfront is still...
Years ago (over 10) I purchased the larger 7.3 Powerstroke FL-1995 oil filter...I crawled under my 1988 F250 4x4 > > > and I didn't have the clearance at my frame to get it on...I was bummed.
Well...it's nice to have good rear brakes again.
My old Drums were very thin.
Still running the ORIGINAL Master Cylinder (31 years old) how about that!
I seriously doubt a reman/cardone or new would be as long lasting.
Thanks again for the feedback...before installing the outer bearing and ratcheting nut I did squirt 'some' gear oil in the cavity. I almost avoided greasing them and was just going wet-soak the bearings in Oil. (perfect application for the thick Lucas Oil Additive)
The truck isn't going...
UPDATE...
thank you all again for the suggestion and help, so very appreciated.
Especially because I didn't have to pop-off the diff cover to remove the Pinion-Pin to get the axles to slide out = saves work, time and mess, with my health it's very slow to go and I can only put in an hour or so...
Thanks again fellas, you all are the BEST!
BTW my shoes are 12"x 3" I pulled a wheel in the pouring rain lol
Drums have 5/8 holes
Parts stores are asking me..."semi floating or full floating"???
Thanks again to everyone...over 30 years of ownership and as many times that I have changed out the rear-oil can't say I ever noticed a "vent" but I'll take a look and check it.
In the YouTube video below at (1:44) I noticed the fella using the same exact socket/tool on his ratcheting-nut 2-3/5...
Thank you for clarifying and that means I can do one said at a time and move my Truck if needed...even my old sick ass can pull this one off.
My Haynes 1980 thru 1996 book was throwing me off as it was showing pictures of the Pinion Shaft and C-clips being removed to slide-out the axles.
Also...
Thanks for the feedback,
just crawled under the truck...(pouring rain)...the below numbers are on the Differential Cover Metal Tag...does it help identify what rear-axles I have?
# V126C
# 551027L20
Also, to remove the axles does the differential cover need to come off to access/remove the...
Well, after 30 years of ownership (bought new) and 226,000 miles my driver side rear axle oil seal is starting to weep.
I've done a LOT of work/maintenance on this Truck myself (health is now bad) but I don't really trust a shop to do it, fear it will come back with damage (differential making...
Interesting as almost 90% of the time when a GP fails it is the rear drivers side.
Also, has anyone else notice the Motorcraft/Beru ZD-9 GP's erode away at the bottom 1/4" ?
I installed a good old ZD-9 GP.
BTW, all new ZD-9's were installed in late 2013 (still have the receipt)
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