The part-counter-sales troubles detailed here make me realize I'm not missing anything ordering 95% of my parts (by part numbers, specs, and pictures) online.
Lots of parts lookup info is screwed. Basically, proof-reading isn't profittable. I cross-check things a LOT.
It gets easier when you only deal with one brand/era truck.
I ran some wmo in my 95 PSD. Low concentration. No gasoline added. Made the exhaust stink pretty bad and clogged up the fuel bowl stuff.
If I was to do it again, I'd add some better filtering. A racor primary or similar.
I have only run stock ones on trucks, but we use a number of larger ones at work, on the generators.
You can put them on a timer too, so it only heats for a couple hours prior to run-time.
Edit: another idea is to install a 2nd block heater. Use 1 or both as needed
The 'square' one has a dip in the bottom of the rad support and reaches down between the frame rails.
The 'rectangle' one is really wide and stays above the frame rails.
For my dodge/cummins radiator, I had the same experience with Summit. The picture showed a conventional black radiator, but the description said aluminum. What showed up was a bright shiny aluminum welded unit. For the price, I'm not disappointed.
The mercon tidbit is funny because mercon 5 made mercon 4 obsolete/unavailable.
The main thing is the viscosity, since these tcases have an oil pump. Any atf or similar weight hydraulic oil, compressor oil, or engine oil I expect to work equally well.
I'd love that (what my dodges use) but it's not the case around here. 65's are cheaper, and available at more places. Last I checked, Walmart nor Costco carries a group 31 cranking battery.
I would jumper with #2/0 and go the distance with #4/0. That's what I did on my van. Can't recall the routing so well, other than I went direct to the starter first. Because of chafing possibilities, I'd put something over the positive run as a sleeve anyway.
Dually vs SRW makes no difference. You don't need an alignment shop. A tape measure and some simple props are all that's needed for a solid-axle 4wd.
It is rare for the front and rear tires to line up perfectly on a North American pickup truck. The front track width is usually wider than the...
I was often snugging up the front wheel bearings on my '97 E350 van. I estimate it was rolling at 10k# gross most of the time.
I finally decided to get the slotted rotors and new Timken wheel bearings. Seemed a bit better after that - but ultimately I felt it had more to do with with the...
As many of us said in the beginning, this is the natural action of the factory steering geometry.
Edit: go back to post #3 for an aftermarket countermeasure.
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