Sequential is interesting. Very complicated over compounds. Must be so that the first turbo can be really small, and then not have to deal with it as a restriction, or risk overspeeding it?
For me, if I cant hear them run, and for a good amount of time, they are not known.
I lucked out on one recently, 500 dollar complete factory turbo motor. Had missing injection lines and other parts stolen already. Cleaned stuff up and put it together. Started and ran great with very little...
The amount on the road here has gone down drastically in the last 5 years. Still see them though.
Something that has been interesting is, any used 6.9 7.3 motors that come up on marketplace, if they are advertized as good running, sell pretty quickly. Even in the 1k to 1200 range.
Hei is fine, just compare the drive end of it real close, and maybe check the gear after some time running. Have seen a few cause cam gear wear, probably tough to find one that isnt cheap china junk.
Probably took out the slip yoke bushing, but could be cracked to. The other cases are good, and flat flanges are cool, but unless needed for strength, probably not worth messing around with changing driveshafts.
What year is your truck? The newer cases wont drive a speedo cable.
I have one of each of the flywheels here somewhere. Will try to look in the next few days.
Not going to be about overall weight, but about weight offset built in to the flywheel.
Is interesting though that ford says the differences cannot be seen, other than part number.
I dont remember if the non speedo gear 1356 has the spot for the ball that retains the speedo drive gear. Even if it does not, pretty easy to combine parts to make it happen.
Not really shooting for any max boost number, just trying to get an idea of turbo response at low rpm. Not really looking for more power than a maxxed turbo pump will provide.
Sounds like by how yours acts, a stock 093 will probably do what I am looking for.
Just looking for turbo response...
So, when does it start showing boost, and what does the gauge do between 1500 and 2k?
A few reasons for asking, have plans of double od here shortly, and curious if that turbo will get me the boost that I am looking for, or if compounds with something a little smaller as the first turbo might be...
Since the torque screw just limits the max travel of the metering valve....just like if you limited throttle movement....I would back the torque screw out all the way and then adjust internal screw for smoke/egt. Can use the torque screw for fine adjustment
you can hook the wires from the pulse meter right to the timing adapter on the number one line. Be interesting to see if it reads correctly with that aftermarket line.
I had the lowest gear t19 behind a 7.3 in a truck I had years ago and loved it. Have a 460 zf to put into my truck because It has the 4:1 t19 now, and it sucks.
If we are talking about the diff that is in the picture, that is the rear diff and is a 10.25. Front is a d60.
Yoke may have come loose....very common. But....those strap bolts are loose.....
Obviuosly, if there is any pressure at the ip inlet during extended wot you wont notice anything, but something that I have always assumed is that the pump needs good return fuel flow for cooling.
The 6.5 turbo engines, use a very small, very dependable and quiet electric lift pump. The pre efi...
They actually are, as the spindle bearing is exposed in the back of the wheel bearing.
Have also seen shortened life of wheel bearing, as I dont think they they are sealed that well.
This is really all the kp60 ever really needs. Have worked on many of these trucks over the years, and I have never had the king pins farther apart than replacing a bushing and spring, or most of the time just adding a washer.
A well used sd 50/60 WILL need ball joints .........and then those...
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