Thanks for the picture. As far as the seal, I have written down napa# 16871 for an output seal. Was given a parts number list for rebuilding one some time ago, dont know if that is accurate or not.
The computer on these is pretty basic, I have seen more than a couple times, codes flagged that were not relevant to the actual problem.
I saw one that led several mechanics completely sideways, with an irrelevant code.
Problems almost always come back to tps, tach sensor, or speed sensor...
Something isn't lining up.
The turbuckle on the alternator is in place of a bracket that does add support. The one on the ps is good, it just makes it easy to get tight.
I would maybe look up from underneath an see if you can see what is out of line. Sometimes helps to look closely at right...
Have used many of the napa delphi kits with zero issues. Get some of the napa silicone spray while you are there. Wet the orings with it just before you slide the caps over. And hose connections to the tees. Stuff is like magic.
Napa 8300.
how much can you physically move the top of the alternator by hand? That turnbuckle doesnt add any stability to the alt, like the oe bracket would.
Does the alt line up like it should?
Have not had one of those setups apart, but probably has an adapter that repaced the tailshaft of the trans, and has no seal. Seal is probably in input of the od unit.
He is going to have to pull it apart, and either get numbers off seal, or measurements.
If it uses the same seal as a 4x4 unit, seal will be skf 19611. Was given that number by someone who rebuilt one, so dont know for sure.
What all are they including with doing the ball joints?
Ball joints are 2-250 + 4-6 hours labor depending on what all it needs.
Bearing pack?
Spindle kits?
U joints?
Axle seals? Crazy to pull axles out of a truck this age and hope the old seals dont leak after.....
Price adds up crazy fast any...
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