I have the oil cooler back in, thermostat gasket, valve stems all done and when I get the right size feeler gauge tomorrow I should be throwing on the new HG and putting the heads back of all goes well and new gaskets on the intake manifolds, slowly getting there.
Update - got the valve positive clamping stem seals in, these differ in shape from the stock seals and are all the same profile (https://classicdieseldesigns.com/products/6-9-7-3-idi-valve-stem-seal-set-x20-seals?_pos=1&_sid=ec347403e&_ss=r) anyone else use these?
Getting the oil cooler back...
How clean are we supposed to get these? Obviously remove all the old gasket but does the carbon build up need to go too?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/rRhYZSWwQbkYXWmD6
A couple questions-
Trying to get this cooler reassembled but it's not cooperating any other tips here? Used grease but no go.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/TzC23SBjusZevRnr5
Messed this part up while I was removing the engine. It's the trans cooler right? I haven't been able to find any other one...
Alright guys, I got the head out and took some pics, hoping you guys could opine, nothing looked like a smoking gun that would cause a HG leak, my eyes aren't experienced though.
Would this straight edge be suitable to check for warpage? I have feeler gauges, what's the tolerance here? How do...
Ahh haha man I messed up a lot of sh*t with this. I appreciate your help and everyone else who has helped guide me up till this point. This is the biggest job I will be doing yet. Let me make a list..
1) I didn't remove the flex plate and was wondering why the engine stand plate was making...
Could you guys elaborate a bit on this step here -
Transmission Bolts: * Automatic: Remove the inspection cover and unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate (rotate the engine by hand to reach all of them)
Thanks, do you remember what 3m grit was used? I heard that using the same mounts is better than any after market out there, what did you use? Did you change out the oil pan or just the give it new RTV? Also, did you remove your hood when you pulled the engine? Thanks for your tips.
Hope these work -
https://photos.app.goo.gl/CSpgbWbnHTetw5LF7
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Cg6aARWBsRTV2hDn9
https://photos.app.goo.gl/mpUGZCMietgfh8ex9
( I know fuel lines need shortening between caps)
Almost ready to pull the engine but rain in my area has held me up. I have a few things that are still connecting the engine and was hoping for clarification and to not yank anything off that may be attached while pulling.
Is this the only connection to the PS that needs to unbolt(see below)...
Thanks. Is there a chance I could do this whole thing with the fan on? I already removed the radiator and it looks like there might be enough space to pull
I'm trying to remove the fan clutch but it's giving me hell. I'm finding both opinions on which direction I should be pulling to remove. Do I pull my wrench in the direction of the drivers side or passenger side when facing the truck to loosen the nut?
This is what AI says about pulling the engine. Anything to not,add or delete ( I have an automatic trans).
Phase 1: Clear the Front & Drain Fluids
Remove the Hood: Mark the hinge locations with a Sharpie first to make realignment easier later.
Drain Everything: Drain the coolant (radiator...
OK so even if i don't end up using one its ok to order one with a sleeve? Sorry I have no idea what this will look like or need till I get a chance to get eyes on it.
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