I had a few hundred gallons of Valvoline synthetic 5w-20 that I used as fuel for a couple years. I ran about 4x the usual dose of cetane booster, and also mixed it with 25-50% diesel depending on time of year. It definitely smoked a lot more than straight diesel and had less power, but I sure...
I did a layer of 50mil butyl sound deadening mat under the carpet, but I didn’t feel like it made enough difference so I added 200mil closed cell foam on top of it. There’s still a lot of noise coming through the firewall but the sound deadening made a big difference.
Also make sure you don’t...
That whistling is interesting. I’ve heard “chirping” sounds from exhaust before that ended up being cracked exhaust manifolds, but that whistle is new to me.
Have you replaced the IP or anything between the video you recorded a year ago and now? It definitely sounded smoother a year ago, and I...
Jake_IN posted his machine shop invoice in post #21 of this thread:
https://www.oilburners.net/threads/7-3-tear-down-rebuild-hydrolocked.88865/page-2
It was $3500 for parts and machining labor, but didn’t include the assembly because he put it together himself. I’m sure prices have gone up in...
It’s super frustrating that nobody manufactures a replacement rad support for an 87-91 diesel with A/C. I’ve been watching the classifieds near me for 2-3 years now and haven’t been able to get a good one, so if I were you I’d probably attempt a repair on that one.
I’m considering buying the...
My truck came with an all-aluminum champion 3 core in it when I bought it. No issues at all, and when it’s time for a replacement I’ll buy the same one again.
Actually if it springs a leak that might be a great excuse to buy a tig welder!
A couple possibilities that I thought of:
- Your oil cooler tubes might have a hole in them, causing them to mix oil and water even though you replaced the O-rings. You can pressure test the oil cooler itself to check this.
- The water pump has a couple bolts that you have to seal with RTV to...
Congrats and well done!
I would not have thought of making a hole saw to cut out the carbon. I’m really glad it worked out, thanks for keeping us updated.
Here’s another semi-crazy idea. What if you put the rest of the injectors back in and fired it up? The compression might shoot the stuck injector tip right out of the hole.
After you screwed in your turned-down injector, did you try tapping it with a hammer to get it moving? It shouldn’t hurt anything since the only thing holding the tip in place is carbon (no threads).
What are you soaking it with? I wonder if a gun cleaning solution would be best since it will...
I didn’t mess with the main seals on mine since they weren’t leaking. Here’s the videos I watched to get ready to do the head gaskets:
And here’s a link to a thread where one of the members here posted a bunch of tech manuals:
https://www.oilburners.net/threads/useful-pdfs.92695/
This is actually very common! My bet is that it’s not galling, but carbon buildup that has made its way past the copper washer and into the threads. If you keep trying to back it out you will end up unscrewing the top half of the injector body and the lower half will be stuck in the head...
You want the long-eared 3g alternator. It’s a direct bolt-in, plus some minor wiring changes. Here’s the one on my Amazon wish list:
https://a.co/d/0ewEC2qI
You can get it out of many ford vehicles, but I like that this one comes with the correct pulley pre-installed. You will also need these...
I did my head gaskets a little over a year ago. I didn’t pull the engine, I just used a cherry picker with a load leveler to lift and position the heads. I did call a friend to help with the install; he worked the jack on the cherry picker while I guided the heads into position. It was tight...
Justin from R&D has an IDI rebuild series on YouTube, and in one of them he talks about the piston squirters. He said that you can remove the press-in ones with a vice grip slide hammer, and re-install them with red locktite.
Here’s the video, he talks about them around the 13 minute mark:
Here’s what my 7.3 service manual says:
I know the manuals say not to deck the block, but in Justin from R&D’s block machining video on YouTube he does multiple light passes on the deck during the process of sleeving the block. I think there’s some wiggle room now with the thicker head gaskets...
This positive cable from Amazon fit perfect on my 89:
https://a.co/d/aLn9y2d
I bought 2 of these ones for the negatives, plus military-style terminals to attach to the batteries. They were longer than necessary, but work great:
https://a.co/d/5U8r9tq
It was 1 degree this morning and my truck...
Are you sure your tach and speedo are reading right? I have an 89 with a zf-5, 4.10 gears and 35” tires, and 2400 rpm in 5th gear is over 80mph.
2400 rpm in 4th is closer to 65mph though.
Any chance a previous owner put in 5.38 gears?
I’ve been running that Baldwin filter the last two changes since the fl-1995 went up in price. No issues that I can tell, fuel pressure seems the same, etc. I run a Baldwin fuel filter as well.
What did the fluid look like? When my bearings were going bad, the fluid was really dark and burnt smelling. There is a magnet, but you have to separate the case halves to examine it.
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