I’ve been on the lookout for a spare IDI engine to rebuild, and I came across a 7.3 out of a school bus. It had an Allison mt643 transmission behind it, and the engine still has the adapter for that transmission. Are these adapters valuable? Interestingly the engine also has a turbo exhaust...
One thing I should make clear is that my truck is NA, and the fuel screw isn’t turned up. That may be the scenario in which the 40222 is viable. I was 100% planning on a Holley red when the 40222 dies, but now i’m second-guessing that option as well. Airdog makes a 100gph pump in their raptor...
Regarding fuel pressure, the DB2 service manual says the following:
Basically as long as my fuel filter light isn’t coming on, I figure my lift pump is giving the DB2 all it needs. 1PSI is perfectly fine. That being said, I still want to add a fuel pressure gauge inside the cab just so I know...
I’ve wondered about this as well, but not just Ford. The DB2 injection pump was used in tons of applications, and I would think a lift pump from any of them would work well for us. I can’t remember if the GM 6.2 or 6.5 used an electric lift pump, but one of them does.
For myself, I must have...
How often can you just replace a head gasket on these trucks, and not find things like a cracked head or loose valve guides? I don’t have enough experience with these engines yet to know, but I know on some other engines you have to plan on re-manned heads if you’re doing a head gasket
When I had my bed off a month ago, I wire wheeled the frame and sprayed it with rust reformer, then 24 hours later a couple coats of rustoleum farm and implement paint. I’ll resurrect this thread again in the spring to let you guys know how it looks after a salty Ohio winter.
Rear diff was my thought as well. I would grab the pinion yoke and see if the pinion bearing has loosened up enough to wiggle it. If the gear oil is old enough to warrant a change, it might be good to pop the cover and have a look inside. My diff made a whirring noise as it started to fail, but...
I didn’t realize it was as bad as it was. I ended up having to rebuild most of the cab mount, inner pillar, and inner rocker as well as the floor pans. The seam sealer in my cowl and drip rails was cracked and letting water drip down under the dash and inside the front and rear pillars. Not good!
I decided to tackle my floor pans before they start salting the roads again here in Ohio. Here’s a before and after of the driver’s side. I’m also installing sound deadening, new carpet, and door weatherstrip. Maybe now I’ll be able to hear the radio!
One mod I’d like to do someday is swap out my bumper for a later model super duty bumper like the one in this pic. Several companies make conversion brackets, and at least in my area take-off bumpers are pretty easy to come by. Lots of air flow on these.
I’m patching my floor pans right now and I found water leaking in through my cowl as well. Looks like I’ll be tackling this next! You should also check the seam sealer in your drip rails, I guarantee it’s cracked too and letting water drip down inside your A and B pillars.
You can filter Amazon results to only look at ones that can be delivered tomorrow. It may be different where you live, but I saw a good number of options available for overnight delivery through Amazon.
I saw a YouTube video where some guys put a bunch of filters through some pretty scientific testing. They actually found the gold-colored fram filters (I can’t remember which model that is) to be very high quality.
The thin flexible circuit board on the back of the cluster can get brittle and crack. On my truck, the first one to go was the fuel gauge because that circuit goes around the perimeter of the circuit board and the cracks started from the outside. I’d examine it closely and see if it’s...
The only other thing I’ll add is that assembling everything can be a real pain. I’ve done drum brakes before and have the proper tools, but there are some really stiff springs to deal with on these trucks. I was sore by the time I was done.
Cubey and lotzagoodstuff are 100% correct, check your shoes and add a blob of weld to them if needed. Mine barely worked after I replaced everything, and also seemed to drag strangely when braking in reverse because of this issue.
I just got a cheap nippon-denso style one from Rockauto. It’s been good so far. I’m really surprised that the casting on the powermaster doesn’t give enough room to get a socket on. I replaced that top bolt with a stud when I did my starter, that way you can hang the starter on the stud while...
I replaced mine a year or so ago, and the key for me was a wobble extension. Like you noticed, the starter doesn’t let you access the top bolt straight on. A wobble extension let me get to it at an angle, and made the job much easier.
We talked about this recently in this other thread, and some good information was shared:
https://www.oilburners.net/threads/fluid-suggestions-for-high-mileage-zf-5.92626/
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.