Isn’t that like a sip.....:cheers:. I usually just stick a straw in a pitcher lol.
Cheers to Calvin. I’m sure he’s having a cold one up above as we speak.
Gotta say, think I would rather have that engine in a pickup over a 6.9/7.3 idi....(Referring to his other project)
Looking good Brian! Awesome work as always
My rig was getting a consistent 16 mpg (hwy) with C6 & 3:55’s. Went up to 18 once I put the 3:08’s in.
It’s probably your injection pump. New sticks and old IP never go together.
Everyone says wheel spacers are safe nowadays. I don’t like them, and actually took off 1.25 wheel spacers from my yj yesterday.
My father-in-law law lost the front right wheel from his F100 pickup because of a wheel spacer fault. Luckily he wasn’t hurt, but still...
Well if you didn’t tighten the injector bore where the two halves thread together, then yes, it’ll continue leaking. The injector needs to be tightened. Make sense now?
A champion radiator for ~$250 is a whole hell of a lot lighter on the pocket book. I still can’t get over the price for that radiator.
Should come with a free pair of depends, because I damn near crapped myself :number2.
Jesus, are you serious? I knew they were expensive, but wasn’t thinking they were that rich.
I had my 6.9 short block engine rebuilt for about that much lol.
From what I hear, they are the best of the best. That company makes very good radiators.
I went with a champion rad on both my Idi and yj jeep, since quality seems good & it was a fraction of the price when comparing it to a Rodney red.
I found the exact same thing when I replaced my tstat years ago in my old 87 pickup. Sometimes aftermarket parts are good, and sometimes they are pure $h!t.
Oem is the only way to go with this specific part.
Lucky you. Mine cheapie fuel gauge blew up and spewed about 15 gallons of diesel fuel all over the engine before I knew what happened. Of course, it was at midnight in the middle of nowhere lol.
If your going to put a fuel gauge underneath the engine bay, make sure it’s good quality & liquid filled.
If your getting 9mpg unloaded, injectors likely won’t solve your mileage problem. But if they’re original or fouled up, by all means change em out.
How old is your injection pump?
Shit, I just drained the oil out of my yj because I need to drop the pan & change out the rear main soon. The damn drain plug was not even finger tight. I must have forgotten to tighten the drain bolt the last time I changed the oil cookoo.
Can’t believe it didnt back out while driving.
Are you talking about the rpm limit or is your tach gauge going wacky?
My 6.9 would easily hit that rpm at wot, once getting it to 4K. They can handle it.
If your gauge is going loco, replace the sensor that’s on top of the IP tower cover.
Is your engine running factory headgaskets? Or did you replace the gaskets & running stock headbolts.
The weak link here is the factory headgaskets. They are nothing like the ones they make today. The quality is much better, with very few people having problems blowing out a new felpro or VR...
I’ve heard that 13 psi is about the max without an intercooler. From what I understand, the charged air becomes super heated from the turbine & loses most of its efficiency very quickly. If your looking to gain effective boost beyond that #, an intercooler is recommended.
Of course, studs are...
Tips for breaking in a new engine:
Bring engine to normal operating temp, while checking everything over. Take it for a quick spin for about 20 minutes and check everything over again. Some people change the oil/filter after first 20 minutes of run time, I would advise that you do.
After...
Try and use the shortest, thickest cord possible. A longer extension cord will wick some of the juice away, and can sometimes cause problems. That’s all I know when it comes to electricity lol.
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