It would take 5 minutes to look under the dash at the clutch pedal to see if the rod/linkage is worn, and also to remove the slave cylinder (twists off) and measure the distance of the clutch fork.
Shifting without a clutch is harder on the transmission, but if you have to do it just to get by...
Bent clutch fork? Original master/slave assembly?
First step would be to replace the fluid with pennzoil synchromesh, filling through the shifter is the easiest method.
Next you could remove the slave cylinder and measure the distance from the housing to the shift fork.
The heim joint mod can...
What's the EOP? The reservoir oil level is checked by removing the inspection plug and measuring the distance from the top of the casing to the top of the oil. Should be under an inch.
sounds like you HPOP reservoir isn't full. You did measure from the inspection plug at the top of the reservoir (allen head plug) and confirm the oil is no more than 1" below the top correct?
check the oil level at the inspection plug at the top of the HPOP (hex head plug), oil level should be no lower than an inch from the top of the housing
if the ICP connection has oil, the sensor is faulty. However, you can run the engine with that sensor disconnected and the PCM will default to...
need to zoom back so I can reference what you are pointing at
I'd suggest pulling the valve covers (or at least one of them) and confirm that oil is coming from the spouts on each of the injectors while cranking. No oil means the injectors are not firing.
If the HPOP is full, and the LPOP isn't supply any oil to the reservoir, the engine will still start and run for 10-30 seconds on the oil that is in the reservoir. If the galley plugs are "blown out" you would be dumping a large volume of oil all over the engine bay.
the LPOP lubricates the...
check oil level at the HPOP inspection plug. Oil should be no more than 1" from the top. More involved diagnosis would be to remove the valve covers and watch the injector oil spouts when cranking. There should be even flow from each spout indicating that the injector is firing properly.
If you're going to preventatively replace parts, then by all means use OEM ! Sometimes the replacement can be worse than what's there, especially if it's not installed correctly !
I personally wouldn't touch the other head, or cups, or whatever else besides what is actually needed to get back...
aside from the shear weight of the PSD head, it's probably the easiest "modern"diesel to R/R the head gasket. I'm sure a competent shop will get it done.
The ZF6 has a "detent" as I would call it, it takes more effort to go into L or R than all other gears as you throw the shifer beyond 1st/2nd
If it engages other gears easily this could be the case of normal operation.
The other area to look at is the slave/master assembly, it's plastic from...
Correct way would be to remove the head an extract.
Gambling way would be to soak the GP remains with the lubricant of choice, fire the engine up with the valve cover removed and hope the compression blows it out.
What injectors are you running? I'll assume they are single shots to be working with the OBS PCM?
You're limited by injector size regardless IMO so I would just run the tuning that's available for that PCM.
remove the valve covers and crank it over. Is there oil coming from all 8 injector spouts while cranking? There should be oil only coming from the spouts and no where else around the injector body or solenoid. No oil means the injector(s) aren't firing.
If you don't know the service history of...
is your location correct (Ohio)? If so you'll have better cold starts with the 5w-40.
I use rotella 5w-40 but recently switched to mobil delvac1 5w-40 since they had a ridiculous deal on it.
shifter sounds normal
you're going to need all the wiring for the PCM and IDM to run the engine. Hopefully you can grab everything along with a pinout/schematic to see how to mate it to the 66 chassis.
obviously the IDI is a better choice for a 66 chassis since it practically requires one wire...
Dorman = junk
I've never seen a bleed hole on the regulator. Never actually looked though.
I would again suggest getting an OEM rebuild kit, install it, and drive on.
Make sure the spring is properly seated in the poppet.
Doesn't sound like there's a reason you'd need extra fuel pressure.
pressure gauge correct?
fuel pressure should drop to zero in a few seconds once the pump shuts off.
get an OEM regulator rebuild kit, install it, and be done.... unless there is a reason you need extra fuel pressure?
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