That depends on how you setup the boost switch and how you drive it. If you have it setup to come on anytime you are in boost... then no. At 10gal/hour... a gallon tank would be empty in 6 minutes of run time. Now if you set it up to come on at higher boost levels, then it'll be Ok.
Just a single stage kit (just looked it up.. its their universal "stage 1" kit from DevilsOwn)... no controller or bs... activated by boost pressure switch. I think I'm running ~10gal/hour nozzles in everything.
We run w/m on 3 different trucks ( 1 cummins and 2 IDIs) all seeing waste oil.
It helps keep things clean.. and there's a substantial power gain when running winter blend washer fluid.
Works great all around.
The cheapest kits I've seen have been DevilsOwn and AEM
ATF and hydraulic oil is cream of the crop for waste oil. The issues you were having with motor oil was how thick it is. From what I'm reading, you weren't thinning the oil. What ever oil you run, mix in 10-20% gasoline and give that a shot. (With ATF, you may only want to go with 5%...
Less than a tank and I'd have to pull them and wire wheel the tips to get it to run right again.
Never had a hiccup on the IDI... Just direct injected engines.
It's got a Bosch A pump (similar to the p.. just lower output).
They run great on veggie... But I've never had luck with direct injection and wmo. Then I see countless stories of people who run the 12v on oil without a problem.
Hey guys...
Just bought a big bus for our toy hauler conversion. Our little bus (7.3 IDI) drinks WMO no problem... so was curious how the DT would handle it.
Anyone have experience with it?
There is at least 1 company that offers tunes for the PSD for waste oil specifically... and I know of several guys who have ran the 7.3 on straight ATF. Keep it thin.. keep it clean.. see what it does.
Dont cheap out on filtration... centrifuge would be a must.
2 tanks... always...
Change the pulley size. When I replaced my pump, I had to do the same as the new pump was tighter then the old worn out pump I was using before. Would do the same thing and over-temp the motor within 10-20minutes
Otherwise, if you are hell bent on giving up, what do you want for the 'fuge...
Clean oil is certainly key. We run ours looped on the 55gph centrifuge for 48hrs now and it runs great on it. I do get some hazing if the truck idles for extended periods but otherwise, can't tell its running on waste oil.
When we did ours, we used a 1" hole saw on the drum... Then used self tapping screws and sealant on the bottom of the 'fuge. The one we got from PA has mounting holes in the base. Never had an issue with drainage.
What is your operating pressure?
From the sounds of it, pressure is building and pushing the o-ring out of place. Either that, or the nozzles are getting plugged up.
When ours first comes online.. it will gradually slow down unless pressure is monitored. As it runs at first, the oil does...
Hey guys...
Well.. I'm almost 100% certain that I did not have a speedo cable hooked to my cluster when I removed it last... however the speedo is driven via a cable off the transfer case.
Am I not remembering correctly or does it have some sort of mechanical/electrical signal generator?
If...
We remove the actuator all together and use an eyelet and some all thread. All you'd have to do is wrap tie wire tight around the wg stud and the actuator.
Correct. The spring in the actuator can be overcome by drive pressure. That's why people see an increase in boost when they anchor the wg shut compared to just unhooking the reference line.
Well, I know for a fact that drive pressure (exhaust pressure) will blow the waste gate open. The actuator when unhooked doesn't have much resistance to it. Drive pressure is typically a good bit higher then boost pressure until boost is fully established. 30+psi of drive pressure isnt...
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