That's what I was thinking. Its only the 2nd time I've started the engine with the new heads so I'm sure its still got quite a bit of air trapped in the lines.
I've got clear return lines and some clear supply sections as well so I'll keep an eye on it.
Thanks
Hey guys...
What would cause a harsh "timing like" rattle in the first 20-30 seconds of run time? I don't have the cold advance hooked up currently so that's not it...
Could it be air in the supply side?
Sounds very marbley when first started as if the timing is over advanced... then...
Well... hopefully all is well again. Cooling system is plumbed.. let the truck run for 30-45minutes with no odd noises other then the vac. pump (have a line off at the dist. block so its making a funny noise...
Other then that, with the 4 core in and the fan shroud back on, after the...
Turbo doesn't use oil seals... it uses a spring loaded ring similar to a piston ring. Yes you will be able to push air past those rings. If the engine isn't burning quite a bit of oil and oil isn't pooling in the intake, I wouldn't be overly concerned about it.
Check for play in/out and...
Not saying you bud and I would have came to the same conclusion...
Mainly those getting on him for not contacting Mel first when all he did was ask if it was safe to run... He wasn't bad-mouthing Mel at all which some where getting a bit touchy about. That was all I was getting at.
Gotcha. Then they'll warranty it if any issues come up with it. Its always a good idea to get it noted either way as they may have not noted it in their records when they sent it out and it could have come back on you if problems would come up down the road.
Even if it wont cause issues...
Well.. I will say that when you have a high dollar item come in damaged, it would be easy to get a bit panicked and start ranting about it... However the OP didnt. I also know that Mel is a big supporter of the site and people are quick to defend his name here... but in this case, it...
I gotta say... I'm somewhat surprised at how quickly everyone jumped down the OPs throat. If this would have happened to me... I would have done the same. I don't see any badmouthing but I do see him asking if he can just fix it and run it to get his truck back on the road... some people...
Well it runs...
I don't have the cooling system plumbed so I only let it run for 15 seconds or so. It was long enough to purge the air, build oil pressure, and check for ticking...
No more tapping from the exhaust... No odd noises from the valve train or intake... So far, so good...
Compared to others I've seen, it certainly does however there are no kinks in the line like it's been bent and it lines up with the timing adapter.
Not sure what to think about it... Doesn't leak and the odd bend looks factory even though it's nothing like the ones I've seen before...??
Finished buttoning up the driver's side head and pulled the valley pan..
Got everything cleaned up and installed the new pan with a light coat of paint...
Prepped the intake and got it in place along with the injection pump.
All of the main hard parts are now back in place. I...
It is... But even if it wasn't, there is a pipe plug in the driver's side head. Easy enough to swap the fitting and plug.
I'm pretty sure that these heads were both passenger side heads as the temp sender for the high idle and cold advance is on both heads... It's on the rear on the...
We got the other head sat in place... didnt have much spare time to work on the truck but a buddy stopped by and helped me heave it in. Dropped a few bolts in and snugged them up just to keep things in place until Sunday afternoon.
Hopefully I'll get it back together by sunday evening and...
Found some dowels in stock and will be picking them up after work. If I have time, I'll sit the head in place tonight and hopefully button it up this weekend.
More to come.
Longs Tru-Cool 40k is amazing...
Im running it with my built 4l80e in my 4bt Tahoe... When its close to 100F ambient, trans temp runs around 130-150. Hottest I've ever seen the trans since the build with using this cooler was 155 and that was dogging it on a hot day while pulling. I also...
Just went and checked... Neither of my engines have a pipe plug in that area. There is a plug on the head between 6&8... The only plug on the block is the cooling jacket drain...
Are you needing thread size or what? Is it a pipe plug or...?
I'll take a look after work tomorrow and let you know. Not sure if I'll be much help as most of the external fittings are extremely corroded and may not be removable to check.
Made some progress but not as much as I hoped... Have to order 2 alignment dowels in the morning as mine were fubared.
Anyways... 1 head is on and buttoned up.
Surface prepped... holes chased...
Back together and everything torqued to spec. All head bolts torqued to 110lb...
The hard shifting could also be the FIPL sensor on the side of the injection pump (works like a throttle position sensor) and they are adjustable. If its adjusted too high, the trans thinks you are driving harder (more throttle) which increases shift firmness.
There is an adjustment...
Gaskets... ES70689
O-Rings.... GS33545
Those are the parts I used when I rebuilt mine. Ordered from Rockauto.
The flat gaskets in the kit you posted look different and it has too many o-rings. Rebuilding the oil cooler isnt bad.. but plan on a weekend. You will want to remove...
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