I finished last night at 3 am. I had the attitude of it works it works. Clips hold the u joint on the transfer case yoke. Everything was pressed into place on the driveshaft. Only issue was the yoke, which I will need to order a new one eventually. The old caps were very snug, not sure why they...
They are definitely 1.188.
I used the press to get them on the driveshaft. On the tail yoke to the tcase, it is very loose per my video. I bought a third 1.063 u joint just in case and to compare. It's definitely smaller by 1/8th of an inch. It's just the tcase yoke that's super loose.
Very...
Got home from the parts store. It was a horrible drive back.
Looksy what I found when I got underneath! Talk about close! Hope the driveshaft ain't damaged.
Never-Have-I-Ether
Ok, now I'm getting started! Want this to be as easy as possible. Do I have to pull the shaft out of the tcase? Or can I leave it on and while replacing the joint?
Gotcha, I was thinking the same. Just grabbed those! I drive a big ol' diesel, ofc I get the biggest part:Thumbs Up
Definitely not gonna blame you if it doesn't work:joker:
Here is the confusing part! They also have a u joint that is 1.063 AND 1.188. Good grief, why can't it be simple?:idiot...
Howdy!
1993 F250 7.3 IDI ZF5 4X4
Getting u joints for my truck. I have two options. 1.188 or 1.063?? Which one do I get? Really don't want to buy both and bring a set back later, don't have the money for that.
Never-Have-I-Ether
My oil leak actually mysteriously stopped. I didn't do anything and it went away. Wasn't coming from valve cover. I think it was the CDR or IP that was leaking....
Never-Have-I-Ether
I'll look into that. Thanks for the information.
It's a 75 gallon auxiliary tank with a toolbox. It's rust free inside and out. Pretty average priced in my area.
Never-Have-I-Ether
Already tried the JB weld and it didn't work. I may try that stuff if it'll work. I paid $400 for the tank and after 4 months this happened. I don't understand how it happened very peculiar and it cracked in 4/5 spots.
Never-Have-I-Ether
Welp,
The fuel tank I bought off a guy from marketplace started leaking bad. Pulled it out and found several small cracks on the bottom and back.
Would a fuel tank sealer work y'all think? Any recommendations? I don't have a welder.
Never-Have-I-Ether
https://www.alternativedieselfuels.com/
Finally have the original site up which I first started on. If y'all got questions I'd be happy to help.
Never-Have-I-Ether
The 8.5 degrees for timing is for N/A engines I believe. Turbo models are between 7.5-4* as you mentioned. That's the way I remember it.
Never-Have-I-Ether
Howdy!
Ok, Im rechecking timing and wondering if I did something wrong the first time. I have it set to "probe" but if I understand right it should be set to "offset". When I change it to "offset" on the DTI the rpm probe turns off and goes to "P".
Thoughts?
Never-Have-I-Ether
I may try, I used a funnel and did it like last time. Completely changed the fluid so it's nice and fresh. The synchros seem to be damaged and won't let me downshift. It does grind if I try to force it. Luckily it's only above 20mph so not a huge impairment.
As for them screws, my wrench was...
Went to put out my fluid in the top of trans today. As is often the case, when I went to pull the top 4 bolts out the Allen heads stripped. Yes, I used the correct size and spun it the loosey direction. Damn this is annoying.
Never-Have-I-Ether
I was thinking just seal the top and pressure wash it, then drain the fluid? There's supposed to be a breather vent bolt and I can't even see where it's at. Pressure wash then fluid change. Sounds like a good plan to me. How else would I get all the crap off? I would go through 15 cans of brake...
It's the EXACT same as reverse. You know, how it blocks you from going in gear when driving forward or in OD. Yep, same feeling for 1st and 2nd when going over 20mph. You simply don't go in gear like reverse.
Never-Have-I-Ether
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