following closely, i have a wastegated banks kit that seems okay but i want to reseal it before i install it. prior research seemed wishy-washy about kits that will work
I used to squirt some gold bond powder on my old chevys serp belt to quiet it down for a couple weeks. in my case it was a slight misalignment, but you should pull the belt and deep clean all the pulley grooves and belt with brake clean.
i wouldnt play with the timing until you have a meter on it. what are the injectors popping at? as long as they all match within ~50 psi then time with the meter accordingly. dont pop them on the truck, doesnt sound fruitful. you can test them with 10w on the bench though. something also to note...
Really like the relay idea, basically use the normally open circuit for one sending unit and the normally closed for the other is what I'm understanding. Wonder if i can find all the required wires in the connector on the selector valve and use the 12v from one of the directions on the dash switch.
The pumps are all the same, the difference in HP is the WOT fuel delivery by the pump plungers. The measurement of the fully extended pumping plungers when the pump was built is what makes them print the HP rating on the valve cover. When you turn up the "fuel screw" it compresses a leaf spring...
are we forgetting the idi was actually designed to run against the governer? yes the motor makes the most torque under 2000, sometimes it needs to be wound out like a detroit. lol these motors were in school busses that maxed 55 mph against the governer at 33-3400 rpm. in a marine application...
Hey!
Hey! ive been trying to figure out the same thing on my 93. Wonder if the circuits are the same between brick and aero.. Im using some heavy duty hydraulic spool valves as selector valves because the stock selector is weak for my setup. Ive been chasing an issue where both tank sending...
rust is from never getting the engine up to temp to burn the moisture out of the oil/never changing the oil. when you say "fuel pressure is perfect" are you talking about out of the filter head? cause you never specified if you actually have fuel at your injectors. even with a dogs fart of...
you should audibly hear a click of the solenoid when ignition power is on and you pull the spade off the FSS wire off. touch it a few time to the terminal. should click. unless the pump is totally gummed up l, i doubt youll need a new one.
Let it warm up a bit then started down the road, and right away i could tell i was starting to gel up, so i just made it into the gas station down the st that has Kerosene and threw 3 gallons in the tank. gonna sit and idle and let that circulate for a little bit
Been plugged in all night, waiting til we hit about -4 in an hour and im gonna get her fired up. Have had to do some real nasty cold starts with no plug in recently and i know it dont like it very much
Seal up the filter head, there's many leak points, and you can try plugging the port on the filter head that feeds into #1 return cap. this stops giving the filter an easy place to drain back. But if it's only 1/4 full, you probably have a leak on the bottom somewhere
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