yet another pump timing question??

[hrkid53]

Hello all... my names Cory and I recently purchased a 94 f-250 factory turbo idi. The transmission and ip were bad when I purchased the truck. I rebuilt the transmission (e4od) and installed a new ip and injectors from a local pump repair shop in Sacramento. My problem now is I have to leave the cold advance unplugged for the truck to run when cold. If i plug it in it lugs the motor down and blows lots of black smoke. Also if I line the pump and housing marks up the truck billows black smoke!

To resolve this for the time being i have retarded (turned pump to drivers side) as much as possible. the truck runs quieter and starts easy. I did not removed the gear housing when I did the pump originally but for grins today i took it all back apart to make sure the gear timing was correct. i was able to see the "Y" on the cam gear with a mirror and i marked it. I also marked the pump gear and made sure they were both in time. After reassembly the truck runs exactly the same as it did. If you put 12v to the cold advance the idle drops and the truck idles worse.

So on to my questions... isn't the idle supposed to speed up when 12v is applied to the cold advance? Did i get a bad pump or is there something else causing this? Is there anyone local in Sacramento that can check my dynamic timing to see if it is where it needs to be? The truck runs fine and seems to have more grunt with the timing retarded. cruise egt's at 65mph are 550 and boost is about 2.5 lbs. I am new to diesels but no stranger to a wrench. Any help and advice would be appreciated.

 

[icanfixall]

Welcome to the forum. Now you say you removed the pump, gear and cover. ?Then you looked down in and saw the cam gear "Y" mark. Then you made sure the injection pump gear was correctly gear timed to the cam. The only way you can do the accurately is to remove the gear from the housing and the pump. Please tell me if thats how you know the gear is properly timed. Is the pump sitting straight up looking or is it twisted to the drivers or passenger side of the engine. It is possible you got a bad pump but several questions needs to be answered.

 

[cpdenton]

Well, the lines on the pump and housing really don't mean much, as each pump is a little different from another. They all hit the pressure to pop the injectors at just a little different spot. That is why we need to time with a meter. It is very likely that you had the pump too far advanced at first. I set my timing with a meter, then went home and installed my turbo. I found after running mine for a while, I needed to retard the timing about a dimes thickness back toward the drivers side. Egt's got better, had more power and less smoke.

As for the cold advance, there are two things on the pump that get power when the coolant is colder than 125 degrees. There is a cold advance solenoid that advances timing about two degrees. That is working for you because of the symptoms of too much advance when cold. There is also the idle speed solenoid. It has a little plunger that comes up and hits the throttle lever on the passenger side of the pump. It is supposed to extend when the voltage is applied to it. The kicker is, they do not have enough power to push the linkage to speed up the idle, but it will hold the idle faster after you bump he gas pedal to "set" the fast idle. These are also adjustable with a 1/4 inch wrench. You can extend it out to speed up the fast idle or turn it in to slow it down. So, check to see if it comes out far enough to actually speed up the idle if after you bump the linkage to set it.

Btw, welcome to a great community of diesel owners. There is a wealth of knowledge here with members eager to help. Spend some time reading in the FAQ section and the hall of shame thread too.