Would REALLY appreciate head torque sequence for 7.3l turbo. =)

Agnem

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STOP! If you have not had your torque wrench calibrated by teamtorque.com or equivelent, then all your concern for accuracy and correctness won't mean a hoot. Torque wrenches NEED recalibration every year to be close to accurate.
 

homelessduck

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I've never had one calibrated. :dunno Do I have to send it to them? Might just be cheaper to buy a new one.. Or do new ones need to be calibrrated as well?
 

diesel4me2

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I've never had one calibrated. :dunno Do I have to send it to them? Might just be cheaper to buy a new one.. Or do new ones need to be calibrrated as well?

i've always sent mine in, although i paid about double the cost for a calibration certificate when when i purchased it.
 

homelessduck

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What makes them lose calibration? One of mine is new, had it awhile but only used it on one other head gasket job.
 

diesel4me2

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What makes them lose calibration? One of mine is new, had it awhile but only used it on one other head gasket job.

my understanding is that theirs a spring under tension holding the breakaway "the click" on a clicker wrench. when left under pressure the spring "sets" to that pressure,forever altering the next settings. always back torque wrenches to the lowest increment of pressure for storage. people forget to do this and next year when they go to use it they find it at 120lbs. the spring has set to that poundage and is weaker because of it. throwing off the rest of the incremental scale.

that was how it was explained to me. some of the wording might be wrong but the same principle regardless
 

Agnem

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When you send them in they come back with a calibration report, that tells you what they were and what they are now. Micrometer type wrenches have a spring in them that can loose or gain tension. This is why they go out of range. When I did the headgaskets in the Moose Truck, the wrench was 20 pounds over. If I had used it to torque my headbolts, I probably would have snapped one! I don't think a beam type can be calibrated, but then your hopefully not using one of those anyway.
 

homelessduck

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That's basically what I was thinking. So as long as I get a new wrench with the setting at 0 ft lb, it should be fine. I need to get this thing assembled, and don't have the time to send mine away for calibration, unless it is absolutely necessary.

Thanks guys!

-Dallas
 

homelessduck

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Well I don't want to half - ass anything. But if I get a new one, it should be fine, right?
 

THECACKLER

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I always set my "clicker type" wrenches at 20% of scale. I check my wrenches against each other before every session. I use beam, dial and clicker. Beam type never need calibration, and are the most accurate but the most difficult to use. Dials are the second most accurate, but nearly as difficult as beams. The clickers are the least accurate but we are a lazy species.
 

homelessduck

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All of mine are clickers. LOL I can't remember if I set it to 0 after the last time I used it.. Probably didn't.. I will grab a new one, and look for one with the calibration certificate.
 

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Set it to mid range and use it a few times. This will help bring it back. Then check it against another one. I believe a 1/2" drive 15mm 12pt socket will couple two 1/2" drive wrenches.
 

Agnem

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Unless a new one is "new" it's not going to be in calibration any better than the one you have now. Contact teamtorque.com. They will send you a calibrated loaner wrench, while yours is getting tuned.
 

hesutton

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I use beam, dial and clicker. Beam type never need calibration, and are the most accurate but the most difficult to use.

Yep, I'm a "beam" man too. They can be a pain (especially in the arms:D), but I feel a little better using them over the clicker type.

Heath
 

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