WMO what to do with it?

[Agnem]

I'm in the same boat. I have a 250 gal tank full of WMO, but I will probably have to pay a recycler to take it away. If you want to run funny fuel, go Biodiesel. Just as cheap with only a little more labor, and yes this is a plug. http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...G-w-100-Gal-of-fryer-oil-ready-for-processing

The thing to remember about alternative fuels is this... since they are not manufactured according to stringent standards, every batch is different, and one persons experience may not match another persons. There is no point really debating that. You MAY be able to run WMO with no ill effects, but there is no promises. I ruined a 6.9 doing it. Clogged up the pre-cups but good, and cracked both heads. Do so at your own peril, but rest assured, if you save the money you would have othewise spent on fuel, you will certainly have money to fix whatever. It's just that most people can't or won't do that, and then complain when they have to spend it.

 

[Greg5OH]

sorry if its been covered, but how good is centrifuging WMO to get crud out?

 

[BDCarrillo]

Depends on the g forces exerted and time exposed, but they are regarded as the best way.

Too bad that 250 gallons is so far away!

 

[Greg5OH]

i was looking at some fuges and they are not too expensive. about 500 bucks. I like the idea of sticking it on the barell and having it just recycle the same batch for x amount of hours.

 

[BDCarrillo]

You'd need a small lift pump in the barrel to reintroduce the oil at a low feed rate of a couple gallons per hour.

 

[franklin2]

If I were contemplating running a waste oil fuel of any type, I think the first stage should be gravity. Having enough or waiting long enough to let the barrel sit for a month or so, letting water and any other junk try to settle to the bottom.

 

[Hydro-idi]

It would be interesting to see the internals of an engine that has been running WMO for a long time. My guess is that it would be carboned up pretty bad along with stuck rings. When I took my cylinder heads off, every single exhaust valve stem had big old clumps of carbon on them. I ran WATF for about 10k miles. I know the valve stem seals were shot but you still shouldn't see what I found. Here's a pic similar to what I found when I pulled the heads off last November. No mas WATF for me!

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[riotwarrior]

Hey Mel, if one was to double fuge, some WMO or Waste Oil be it hyd, trans, engine etc then pass that through a 2 micron depth media filter do you see any issues with that fuel not being clean enough to use for fuel?

Curious...cause as a shop I can and do process a bit of oil and quite a variety of it.

Some type of GOOD fuge, and heated/filtered oil mixed with a % of furnace oil should work well IMO.

takes?????

 

[Black dawg]

All of my injection pumps that were worn out had head and rotor tolerance issues (increasingly hard hot starts with non wmo mix fuel). I blamed this on the wmo/diesel mix being to thick (low return fuel......injection pump cooling) and not providing pump cooling. My thoughts were that as picky as the advance mech in these pumps are about fuel quality, my fuel was probably clean enough (never had any advance issues), but viscosity is also a big factor in pump wear. my pumps lasted 45-50k

 

[BDCarrillo]

Hydro-idi: did you start on d2 then switch to your alt fuel once up to temp?

Black Dawg: unleaded gas at a 15% mix is much more effective at thinning oil than diesel.

 

[Hydro-idi]

Hydro-idi: did you start on d2 then switch to your alt fuel once up to temp?

Black Dawg: unleaded gas at a 15% mix is much more effective at thinning oil than diesel.

BDCarrillo, for the most part, no. Engine had no problem starting on 100% WATF in the summer. In the winter, I would sometimes mix 20% diesel fuel which would aid in cold start-up.

 

[Black dawg]

Black Dawg: unleaded gas at a 15% mix is much more effective at thinning oil than diesel.

I agree, but I never got acceptable smoke or stink levels with low% gas/wmo mixes. Had much better results just (smoke and stink wise) running 50/50 diesel/wmo. And I never started on anything but diesel....seen the results of trucks that were started and idled on wmo mixes.

 

[BDCarrillo]

Alt fuels on a cold engine are pretty bad about carboning up...

Black Dawg: I've never had an obvious overwhelming oil smell or smoke from either of my trucks. Did you tinker with the pump at all?

 

[franklin2]

Hey Mel, if one was to double fuge, some WMO or Waste Oil be it hyd, trans, engine etc then pass that through a 2 micron depth media filter do you see any issues with that fuel not being clean enough to use for fuel?

Curious...cause as a shop I can and do process a bit of oil and quite a variety of it.

Some type of GOOD fuge, and heated/filtered oil mixed with a % of furnace oil should work well IMO.

takes?????

Let's say there was some way to add the goodies back into the oil when it's new(detergents, etc.) Before you added the goodies back in, you put it through your "gauntlet" of filtering and centrifuge. Would you feel comfortable putting that oil back into the engine? If not, I would not run it in the fuel system. The tolerances and dirt tolerance of the injection pump and the injectors, is just as demanding or maybe more than the engine in my opinion.

 

[Black dawg]

Alt fuels on a cold engine are pretty bad about carboning up...

Black Dawg: I've never had an obvious overwhelming oil smell or smoke from either of my trucks. Did you tinker with the pump at all?

tinker? always.

The times I would have smoke and smell, even when fully warm, was in town traffic. Otherwise, never any bad smell or smoke.

I recently had an occasional wmo burner idi (head gaskets) apart, and the hard white deposits from wmo use wouldnt even burn off using a torch. Using the torch would change it enough that it could, with some effort, be scraped off.