Wiring problems after a fire

[1mouse3]

You are giving the sense wire with the bulb a false reading, these two 6ga wire need fixed and ran to there original home. You have the yellow power lead to the fuse/breaker/relay box on the drives fender looking all jacked up, if as suspect there is low voltage on that box and in turn giving you the wrong output.

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[michwalt15]

- Check voltage with the ground lead on the case of the alternator and positive test lead on the positive of the battery.
13.0 volts
- Check voltage with the ground lead on the case of the alternator and positive test lead on the positive of the alternator.
13.0 volts
- Check voltage with the ground lead on the case of the alternator and positive test lead on the y/w wire pin of the alternator pigtail unpluged, also have a grounded test light hooked up to the y/w wire pin at the same time testing to give load on this lead.
0 volts
- Check voltage with the ground lead on the ground post of the battery and positive test lead on the positive of the alternator.
13.0 volts
- Check voltage with the ground lead on the ground post of the battery and positive test lead on the positive of the battery.
13.0 volts

All of this was done with the engine off.

 

[michwalt15]

I will fix the cable on the left running to the solenoid. I don't know where the alternator cable, on the right, goes to the fuse box. There's not another big wire that runs to the fuse box that it should connect to.

 

[1mouse3]

I was rembering wrong where the alternator wire went originally before I changed it. Went digging through old photos and see it was supposed to the starter relay with a fusible link, ignore the second yellow wire I have going to the glow plugs at the time. The alternator and fuse panel wire would be the two on the front relay, split too two special brown wire that are fusible on the end.

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[1mouse3]

- Check voltage with the ground lead on the case of the alternator and positive test lead on the y/w wire pin of the alternator pigtail unpluged, also have a grounded test light hooked up to the y/w wire pin at the same time testing to give load on this lead.
0 volts

This should be the same 13v as the rest you tested, where do you have this ran? Just run this to the positive post of the alternator, if you cant find it in the harness.

 

[franklin2]

The "A" terminal is the one that the alternator/regulator uses to determine the alternator output. If this wire does not have 12v on it, then the alternator/regulator will try to jack the output up trying to get that "A" wire to 14.5 volts. Once the alternator/regulator "A" wire has 14.5 volts on it, it will trim the alternator output down.

 

[michwalt15]

This should be the same 13v as the rest you tested, where do you have this ran? Just run this to the positive post of the alternator, if you cant find it in the harness.

I will try this tomorrow. thanks

 

[michwalt15]

The "A" terminal is the one that the alternator/regulator uses to determine the alternator output. If this wire does not have 12v on it, then the alternator/regulator will try to jack the output up trying to get that "A" wire to 14.5 volts. Once the alternator/regulator "A" wire has 14.5 volts on it, it will trim the alternator output down.

I will mess with it tomorrow. thanks.

 

[michwalt15]

You are giving the sense wire with the bulb a false reading, these two 6ga wire need fixed and ran to there original home. You have the yellow power lead to the fuse/breaker/relay box on the drives fender looking all jacked up, if as suspect there is low voltage on that box and in turn giving you the wrong output.

I checked the voltage at the box on the drivers fender. It is the same as the battery 13.1. The truck was in an accident before I got it, thats why the box is all jacked up and sitting in a tuperware dish.

I moved the sensing wire lead and the 6 gauge wire to the relay, but its still overcharging.

 

[1mouse3]

The "A" terminal is the one that the alternator/regulator uses to determine the alternator output. If this wire does not have 12v on it, then the alternator/regulator will try to jack the output up trying to get that "A" wire to 14.5 volts. Once the alternator/regulator "A" wire has 14.5 volts on it, it will trim the alternator output down.

Thank for the corection on the sense wire.

I checked the voltage at the box on the drivers fender. It is the same as the battery 13.1. The truck was in an accident before I got it, thats why the box is all jacked up and sitting in a tuperware dish.

I moved the sensing wire lead and the 6 gauge wire to the relay, but its still overcharging.

So there is not much issue to the fuse panel then for now, if gots the same 13v of the battery but that damage section of that 6ga wire looks like something that will corrode out giving issues.


This Is what you need to fix that wire and if you also extend the 6ga off the alternator, to be ran to the relay as well following the a/c line to the core support. This would let you bundle the wires off the engine into one harness and clean up mess.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/dorman-conduct-tite/dorman-conduct-tite-6-gauge-butt-connectors/cti0/85631?q=6ga+butt+splice&pos=7

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/dorman-conduct-tite/dorman-conduct-tite-6-gauge-blue-ring-terminal/cti0/85248?q=6+gauge+ring+terminal&pos=1

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/standard-ignition/standard-ignition-6-gauge-primary-wire/std0/c6er?q=6+gauge+wire&pos=0

- Check voltage with the ground lead on the case of the alternator and positive test lead on the y/w wire pin of the alternator pigtail unpluged, also have a grounded test light hooked up to the y/w wire pin at the same time testing to give load on this lead.
0 volts

Did you solve this loss of voltage for the y/w wire?