where did my oil go?

Knuckledragger

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Smolkin,

If you have a turbo (doesn't look like it by your signature), the seals can go and you will pump oil right into the engine. My 4x4 has that very problem. When we picked it up, it had almost no oil in it and when I tried to start it, the filter housing filled with the new oil I had just put into the crankcase.
 

RLDSL

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Delo is some good stuff. If going dino oil it's pretty hard to beat. Test after test it always prooves to burn off at a slower rate than rotella. It's not just a personal thing. Rotella has more detergents in it. Each has it's plusses, but for the most part it is rare to find anyone in a hot climate running rotella who doesn't go through it like water. Usually the folks having success with rotella run strictly up north.
I certainly wouldn't put a synthetic in the thing especially not a light one before it's been prepped properly, and that means 2 full treatments of Auto Rx to get the rings cleaned out and freed up and all the other crud out of the thingso it won't get damaged. I'm not a big fan of putting lightweight synthetics in these beasts. Their tests consistantly show in heavy and mid range engines that they just don't hold out as well as the heavier synthetics....and I've been selling Amsoil for over 25 years so I have been fooling with this for a while.
 

smolkin

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Smolkin,

If you have a turbo (doesn't look like it by your signature), the seals can go and you will pump oil right into the engine. My 4x4 has that very problem. When we picked it up, it had almost no oil in it and when I tried to start it, the filter housing filled with the new oil I had just put into the crankcase.

No, it's N/A. I don't think losing half my oil would have went well with a turbo.

I just got 12 qts of Delo. The guys at Ward International here are great, but a bit rusty on their 6.9 parts. The problem there is that the last time they sold 6.9 parts to anyone, they didn't have full computer inventory yet, and no one is sure what they actually have in stock. The CDR (that they told me they had in stock) has been ordered, and will be in Wednesday. When I replace it I'll go ahead and do an early oil change, and hopefully the Delo will stick around.
 

lotzagoodstuff

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I can't explain why or how, but my truck seemed to drink about 2 quarts of Rotella in 3000 miles, but it doesn't drink any in the same drain interval with Delo :dunno

I would be very leary of running off brand oil in a diesel. I know our engines are not as oil specific as a PowerStroke, but they definitely need diesel specific oil I get Delo for $11 a gallon on sale, so at the end of your oil change, how much are you really saving per oil change? I'll stick with good oil and proven filters for relatively small difference in cost.
 

idiabuse

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Delo is some good stuff. If going dino oil it's pretty hard to beat. Test after test it always prooves to burn off at a slower rate than rotella. It's not just a personal thing. Rotella has more detergents in it. Each has it's plusses, but for the most part it is rare to find anyone in a hot climate running rotella who doesn't go through it like water. Usually the folks having success with rotella run strictly up north.
I certainly wouldn't put a synthetic in the thing especially not a light one before it's been prepped properly, and that means 2 full treatments of Auto Rx to get the rings cleaned out and freed up and all the other crud out of the thingso it won't get damaged. I'm not a big fan of putting lightweight synthetics in these beasts. Their tests consistantly show in heavy and mid range engines that they just don't hold out as well as the heavier synthetics....and I've been selling Amsoil for over 25 years so I have been fooling with this for a while.
I have had great results with the 5W30 Amsoil diesel in the past with my idi and now I have a whole new engine with the 5W30HDD that I started with.
I plan to use the HDD for the life of my engine without ever a oil change.
I have already got my truck running and soon back on the road.
So no break in oil for me, I already put the HDD in and soon I will send in a 500mile UOA to see some results. so far NO leaks! for the love of Pete NO OIL LEAKS for me ever again! AMSOIL gets expensive with a leaky engine

in the past I pulled 20 mpg city and 25/28 mpg on the road with a dually! that is the same as my current daily driver Taurus SHO! I cant do much with a car like my truck!

Javier
 

dyoung14

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I have had great results with the 5W30 Amsoil diesel in the past with my idi and now I have a whole new engine with the 5W30HDD that I started with.
I plan to use the HDD for the life of my engine without ever a oil change.
I have already got my truck running and soon back on the road.
So no break in oil for me, I already put the HDD in and soon I will send in a 500mile UOA to see some results. so far NO leaks! for the love of Pete NO OIL LEAKS for me ever again! AMSOIL gets expensive with a leaky engine

in the past I pulled 20 mpg city and 25/28 mpg on the road with a dually! that is the same as my current daily driver Taurus SHO! I cant do much with a car like my truck!

Javier

I hope you break your engine in properly and not baby it like some do, if you baby it expect oil use for the rest of its life because the cylinders will glaze and the rings will not seat, give it a few miles to run easy, then put a trailer on it and get the egts up some and tow a load behind that thing everywere you go, dont hot rod it but dont shift at 1000 rpm either
 

Goofyexponent

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Rotella has more detergents in it. Each has it's plusses, but for the most part it is rare to find anyone in a hot climate running rotella who doesn't go through it like water. Usually the folks having success with rotella run strictly up north.
QUOTE]

This explains a LOT as to why I have had good luck with Rotella.
 

82F100SWB

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My experience is weird... I always run Esso lubes in my stuff, as a get a pretty good discount for work(and used to work for the reseller) My 6.9, my Cummins, and a couple of my friends IDI's all will use oil with Dino in them, but, consumption is greatly reduced or eliminated with 0w40 full synth in them.... Makes absolutely no sense.
 

gonecrazyi

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My motor goes through about a qt of rotella in a couple hundred miles. The blowby doesn't seem to be to bad, but it does puff bluish smoke at idle. I think i may try the delo oil to see if it would help with some of the burnoff.
 

idiabuse

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This article appeared in National Oil & Lube News, April 2010

Have you ever met people who have simplistic answers to complex questions and never want to take time to think a little more deeply about the subject? To be honest with you, I think we all fit that description from time to time. Many issues are so complicated that we just don’t have the time to really study them in depth. So we opt out for the simple answer. For example, let’s talk about motor oil consumption.

Ever had a car where you had to top off your oil now and then? Who hasn’t? In my case, I always assumed that this was due to the oil’s volatility. That is, when the engine was hot, the oil’s lighter molecules would vaporize.

I once attended two days of training at a quick lube (part of a major oil company chain) wherein they showed how their conventional oil lost up to 30 percent and their synthetic only 12 percent in a volatility test. It sank home the message I’d already adopted, that synthetics were more resistant to oil loss than conventional oils. While this may be true to a large extent it is not the end of the discussion.

I saw a Technical Service Bulletin called The Reasons for Motor Oil Consumption, and seven pages later I could no longer stand on my simple one sentence answer to the problem. The problem of abnormal oil usage is far more complicated and, in fact, most of the causes are mechanical, not lubricant related at all.

Here are just the first of 40 explanations for oil consumption: External Oil Leaks.
“Some of the many points where external oil leaks may occur include, oil lines, crankcase drain plug, oil pan gasket, valve cover gaskets, oil pump gasket, fuel pump gasket, timing case cover and camshaft bearing seal. No possible source of leakage should be neglected because even a very small leak can cause extremely high oil consumption. For example, it has been estimated that a leak of one drop of oil every 20 feet is approximately equal to a loss of one quart of oil every 100 miles. One way to check for external leaks is to road test the vehicle with a large piece of light-colored cloth tied under the engine. Oil on the cloth will indicate a leak which should be traced to its source.”

But the list goes on. The problem may be front or rear main bearing seals, worn or damaged main bearings, worn or damaged connecting rod bearings, worn or damaged camshaft bearings, worn crankshaft journals, distorted cylinders, honing abrasive, worn ring grooves, cracked or broken ring lands, problems with the wrist pins, clogged oil passages, or even unequal tightening of various bolts.

Item 20 on the list had to do with the radiator, and I initially thought this was just a bit much. Until I read the explanation. A defective cooling system can cause overheating of the engine which may result in the development of localized hot spots in some of the cylinders which can lead to scuffing and scoring of cylinders, pistons and rings resulting in high oil consumption.

And the list goes on. Dirty oil, too much oil in the crankcase, worn or broken piston rings, improper valve timing, incorrect oil pressure, piston slap, internal gasket intake breach, spark knock, aftermarket performance chips and modifications, lugging engines, inappropriate operation of overdrive, leaking turbocharger seals, restricted air intakes and fuel dilution can all contribute in various ways to oil consumption.

In short, few things are as simple as they might initially appear. When all is said and done, however, even though there may be multiple reasons for oil loss, in a mechanically sound engine it boils down to one: the volatility issue. In this, synthetic motor oils make a difference. For this reason, if your customers’ vehicles are mechanically sound they should be using synthetics to reduce their oil consumption. Benefits include reduced oil usage, reduced emissions and improved fuel economy.

Here’s another simple answer that is more complicated than it looks, the cost of synthetics. People who say synthetic motor oils are too expensive have often never gone into depth analyzing the real life cycle costs of a premium synthetic motor oil versus conventional petroleum. The initial cost appears quite a bit higher, but the life cycle cost is the true measure. The annual cost of a premium extended drain synthetic is comparable to or even less than conventional oils these days, and the benefits too numerous for this short summation. When your customer is driving a vehicle with a mechanically sound engine, I always recommend a synthetic solution
 

RLDSL

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My experience is weird... I always run Esso lubes in my stuff, as a get a pretty good discount for work(and used to work for the reseller) My 6.9, my Cummins, and a couple of my friends IDI's all will use oil with Dino in them, but, consumption is greatly reduced or eliminated with 0w40 full synth in them.... Makes absolutely no sense.

Let's see, that nifty little temperature thingy at the bottom of your post tells a LOT! 75 deg f on the first day of Aug! Heck it's over a hundred here right now. In those temps a lightweight oil is going to behave a lot more civilized and isn't going to cook off as easily, and you will do real well with the stuff. Around here I'm running 15w 40 synthetic , heck, I just put 50 wt synthetic atf in my zf for giggles and it loves the stuff, I understand that combination gets a bit sticky for shifting in your kind of climate, but in these temps, it shifts like butter. Regardless of what some like to say about synthetics and temperatures, experience has shown me that different viscosities do make a difference at different climates.
 

Diesel JD

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I'd be scared to run a thin oil in my climate. People are shocked when I tell them it's usually 88-92 degrees here in the summer and we find this normal even mild. In your climate I'd be scared NOT to run a thin synthetic lube, especially in the winter.
 

dyoung14

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I'd be scared to run a thin oil in my climate. People are shocked when I tell them it's usually 88-92 degrees here in the summer and we find this normal even mild. In your climate I'd be scared NOT to run a thin synthetic lube, especially in the winter.

I think there has been about 5 days this summer it hasnt been above 90 here, today it was 98 degrees at 6 oclock:eek:
 

Diesel JD

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Honestly I think Tennessee and Arkansas might have it worse than us with the heat. Here, it's pretty hard for the actual temperature to get above 100 and we usually have afternoon showers and thunderstorms, having said that the heat index is a huge burden here, but this starts to get off topic because the heat index of course has no effect on non living things like engines and oils.
 

dyoung14

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Honestly I think Tennessee and Arkansas might have it worse than us with the heat. Here, it's pretty hard for the actual temperature to get above 100 and we usually have afternoon showers and thunderstorms, having said that the heat index is a huge burden here, but this starts to get off topic because the heat index of course has no effect on non living things like engines and oils.

Not only is it hot here, the humidity is usaully always threw the roof, one of the days i was working with my buddy we was standing there i was like wonder how hot it is, walked over to the edge of the garage it was 105 degrees!:eek: i said time to go inside:D
 
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