Water Injection Really?

racer30

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ooops I knew it expanded alot and thats the number that came to my brain. I will be running a water **** system on my MH for pulling long hills, I got lots of room to put a tank and pump system. I will run just enuff to keep EGTs in check.
 

88 Ford

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I look forward to getting my truck to Cali and putting it on mine. I am goin to go for power on mine cus it won't be on constantly and no matter what it'll cool stuff down...
 

wmoguy

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I look forward to getting my truck to Cali and putting it on mine. I am goin to go for power on mine cus it won't be on constantly and no matter what it'll cool stuff down...

When is it making it's way south?
 

88 Ford

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I'm hoping within a month or two. I was planning on this week but my mom gave me her 2006 Subaru Legacy and I'm taking it back with me first. I am actually on my way to Idaho now to pick it up. And then if and when I get custody of my daughters I will move into a house and get my truck to San Diego then. Its just been a pain. After I get it, I'm also gonna finish my supercharger which the mount is already built for and then blow a turbo through it. Also while I'm at it I'm going to add studs which is a necessity and the cam that NMB2 and Racin are using but I will have to upgrade my heads for that too. It shouldn't be too hard and I'm excited to finally do it.
 
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FordGuy100

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steam expands 19 times from its liquid form of water, remember steam once ruled the world as a power source. Its a simple matter of expantion in a cylinder with a side benefit of cooling the egts of a hard working cumbustion engine. methanol helps the water vaporize and cool the incoming air charge at the same time. It works in a gasser as well to reduce knock and ping under heavy loads.

In theory 18 grams of water will expand to 22.4L in volume (that is, one mole of water will expand to 22.4L in its gaseous state). Thats a big expansion for sure!
 
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rjjp

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In theory 18 grams of water will expand to 22.4L in volume (that is, one mole of water will expand to 22.4L in its gaseous state). Thats a big expansion for sure!

It depends upon the atmospheric pressure.
 

ocnorb

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I came across water injection on a couple of sites and have been reading up on it. I found Snow Performance and this is what they had to say in the performance section.

The extra power produced depends heavily on the concentration of methanol used and the volume injected. Typical power gains in 5.9L and larger applications with a 50% mixture of water/methanol are 50-100 WHP and a 100-150ft lb-ft increase in torque.


This doesn't seem like it could be true or its to risky to install on an engine cause I've been reading through these idi sites and haven't found much on it. If you could get 100hp for $400 wouldn't everyone have one.

What do you guys think is it worth it or is it a scam?
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I think wmoguy has it right. Would've loved to get a slick system like the Snow Performance sells but it wasn't in the budget. I used a 300cc injector and pump from coolingmist with one of their stainless shut off solenoids as my biggest worry was having the motor get hydrolocked.

Mine is set to trigger at 5 psi and I use -20 washer fluid. When it comes on I can tell a difference, but its not like a big "push you into your seat" nitrous kick or anything. Maybe 20-25 HP. The biggest difference it that is spools my turbo quicker.

On an N/A motor it would be good for very hot days and keeping your internals clean; however I don't think you would feel any noticeable power improvement.
 

Matrix37495

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I'm thinking about getting into water injection to help clean up after my WMO and lower the EGTs.

Couple questions:
-What percent **** is in the -20° washer fluid?
-What is the average water consumption? How many miles can you get one one gal water?

I plan on finding some way so it only runs above 5 psi, although most of the time i need the extra cooling is when pulling hills in 4th, under 2k rpm (usually not much boost).
 

wmoguy

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I'm thinking about getting into water injection to help clean up after my WMO and lower the EGTs.

Couple questions:
-What percent **** is in the -20° washer fluid?
-What is the average water consumption? How many miles can you get one one gal water?

I plan on finding some way so it only runs above 5 psi, although most of the time i need the extra cooling is when pulling hills in 4th, under 2k rpm (usually not much boost).

Answers

1. According to this link 35% (see very bottom of page for info) enginerunup.com

2. I have a single 375 ml per hour nozzle in mine, thats the smallest nozzle Snow happens to sell for their "universal Stage 1 diesel kit" Thats 375ml per hour assuming full flow, all the time. So IF I could get full flow all the time (my heads will blow off first or I'd be doing about 130mph) it would take roughly 10 hrs to drain a gallon. So in other wards, it lasts a VERY long time.


Boost controller: Call Snow Performance and see if they'll sell you their boost controller. Its' electronic, and you can set it for your start levels and max power levels. I.e. have it come alive at 5psi, and be at full power at 14psi, or whatever you want really. All you have to do is feed it a line w/ your manifold pressure and it does the rest.
You could go way to the cheap side and just use a Hobbs switch that actuates at 5psi. The early Snow performance kits worked this way, I had one. You basically use the Adjustments on the Hobbs to make the switch to power your high pressure pump for your water **** system. The downside to this spartan method is it's "full on" as soon as that switch hits. You may find "full on" @ 5 psi is not a good thing for your engine. On my Cummins when I first put it on, I had it set to kick in around 20psi IIRC, and you'd have thought that Cummins was gonna do a front flip right outta the engine compartment. It was a horrible feeling watching/feeling that happen. Point being, this stuff takes some fine tuning to work.

It's just my personal opinion, but water ****, as great as it can be is a little like walking around blindfolded in the garden of eden picking apples off trees and taking a bite. You just hope you don't take from the wrong tree. Too much liquid injected too soon is a hydrolock waiting to happen. Myself I'd just pay the few hundred and get a proven system (whether it be Snow's or someone else) and know that when you use it you've got the best odds of having success with it.
FWIW I have my Stage 1 kicking in @ 7psi and full on @ 18 psi (which I don't run up too, I'm just erring on the side of caution for now) Its too dang cold here to determine if these are the right settings for me in the end, but thats where I've started.
 

finitetime

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Matrix cleaning up after my wvo is what go me reading up on these systems.

I don't have a turbo anybody have any idea how to wire this thing into the tach so it will come on and go off based on rpms?
 

wmoguy

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Matrix cleaning up after my wvo is what go me reading up on these systems.

I don't have a turbo anybody have any idea how to wire this thing into the tach so it will come on and go off based on rpms?

microswitch? you could go with a simple variable switch, and manually control it.
 

ocnorb

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Matrix cleaning up after my wvo is what go me reading up on these systems.

I don't have a turbo anybody have any idea how to wire this thing into the tach so it will come on and go off based on rpms?

Another option that some use is wiring it to come on after you hit a certain EGT.

Not sure how you would tie it to the tach. Hmmm, I will think about it.
 

finitetime

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Micro switch Manual control? The only problem I see wit manual control is that I would have to set the flow low enough to not damage the engine at idle. I have an E4od trans and everytime you hit the brake it kicks the torque converter out and the rpms drop. Same with EGTs could still be high when I stop. Don't need the water on full at that point. So It wouldn't be practical in traffic when I'm pulling and if I forget on the highway when I come up on a red light it might be bad. That's why I think it needs to be tied into the rpm's seeing how I don't have a turbo to provide boost.

I got lots of vacum in factory air box but no boost.
 

wmoguy

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Micro switch Manual control? The only problem I see wit manual control is that I would have to set the flow low enough to not damage the engine at idle. I have an E4od trans and everytime you hit the brake it kicks the torque converter out and the rpms drop. Same with EGTs could still be high when I stop. Don't need the water on full at that point. So It wouldn't be practical in traffic when I'm pulling and if I forget on the highway when I come up on a red light it might be bad. That's why I think it needs to be tied into the rpm's seeing how I don't have a turbo to provide boost.

I got lots of vacum in factory air box but no boost.

Call Snow. Ocnorb had a great idea making it read off egts. I am 95% sure they make a controller that works of egts temps. I just can't find a link for it. If you went microswitch it wouldn't have to flow at idle. You could have the switch close at any point you wanted. The variable powered switch was a diff suggestion/option and yes that one you couldn't forget about :sly
 
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