jaluhn83
Full Access Member
If it's just a bad switch, sure. I'd guess it's a problem with the wireless transmitter or receiver though which is most likely beyond the average owner's capabilities to troubleshoot / repair.
US Gear Decellerator
- Thread starter pontoonrob
- Start date
well that would be sweet. I believe I can find another battery, although its extremely thin, Its soldered in a housing and the batterey about is the size of a nickel and thin as a dime. The bigger problem is the grey push button on the red button has quit pushing. It does nothing when I push it.there is a small diaphram behind it and I believe its wore out possibly. Thats why I hope to find red control button.that would be the cats meow. The exhaust part worked just fine, before the button quit---Rob
79jasper
Chickenhawk
I meant maybe take the box to an electronics repair place.
Or even find a friend who's good with electronics.
Edit: Can you get me some pics of the box and button?
If just the button and battery, I'm sure I can find something to replace those.
Any numbers on the battery?
Or even find a friend who's good with electronics.
Edit: Can you get me some pics of the box and button?
If just the button and battery, I'm sure I can find something to replace those.
Any numbers on the battery?
I am digging around for my sodering iron and I'll see if I can upload a pic.(never tried that yet!)---Rob
79jasper
Chickenhawk
If you could, some pics of how many legs the button has, and the battery.
I found a quick way to add pics. Get your pic to full-size, copy URL.
Then here in the message box type [-U-R-L-] PASTE URL HERE [-/-I-M-G-]
Just like that but without the - hyphens and spaces.
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
Aye, I remember seeing those, seemingly overcomplicated mess. How many wires connected to the exhaust brake itself, one or two?
jaluhn83
Full Access Member
*Correction, that could be a first or 2nd gen unit*
I found a troubleshooting guide, see attached if it works.... if not I can e-mail.
I looked at my parts stash and I have a spare control box but not the button part. Unfortunately the button and control box are going to be a matched set so I don't think my box will help you any.
If you send me your box and button I can probably get it fixed, but I'd need it for a month or so. (My father is a very good electronics guy who loves fixing stuff like this, but it's not overnight)
On this generation there should actually be 4 wires (and a ground at the brake). 2 of these are required, 2 are not. The large gauge grey and smaller gauge white wires go to the solenoid and are important. These should each go to a relay. The brake is actuated by a dual coil solenoid - 1 coil closes the butterfly and pulls ~55 amps, the other holds it closed and pulls much less (~2 amps). Hence the large and small wires.
3rd gen units (wired pushbutton instead of remote and no LEDs / rocker switch on the main control box) have a relay on the grey wire for pull in and the white wire connected directly to the control box.
On 1st/2nd gen units the other 2 small wires (blue/orange) connect to a pressure switch on the brake that lights an LED on the main controller indicating a downshift is required for optimal braking. These are not critical for operation.
So to operate the brake, when you push the small button the controller energizes the pull in relay for ~2 seconds while applying power to the hold coil. Power in continued to the hold coil until the button is pushed again or the throttle switch is activated indicating you pushed down on the gas petal. When the throttle switch is activated, the unit goes into a standby mode indicated by a blinking red LED on the push button and will close the brake again once you return to idle.
2nd and 3rd gen units will also automatically cycle the butterfly twice on startup to keep it free of carbon.
I found a troubleshooting guide, see attached if it works.... if not I can e-mail.
I looked at my parts stash and I have a spare control box but not the button part. Unfortunately the button and control box are going to be a matched set so I don't think my box will help you any.
If you send me your box and button I can probably get it fixed, but I'd need it for a month or so. (My father is a very good electronics guy who loves fixing stuff like this, but it's not overnight)
On this generation there should actually be 4 wires (and a ground at the brake). 2 of these are required, 2 are not. The large gauge grey and smaller gauge white wires go to the solenoid and are important. These should each go to a relay. The brake is actuated by a dual coil solenoid - 1 coil closes the butterfly and pulls ~55 amps, the other holds it closed and pulls much less (~2 amps). Hence the large and small wires.
3rd gen units (wired pushbutton instead of remote and no LEDs / rocker switch on the main control box) have a relay on the grey wire for pull in and the white wire connected directly to the control box.
On 1st/2nd gen units the other 2 small wires (blue/orange) connect to a pressure switch on the brake that lights an LED on the main controller indicating a downshift is required for optimal braking. These are not critical for operation.
So to operate the brake, when you push the small button the controller energizes the pull in relay for ~2 seconds while applying power to the hold coil. Power in continued to the hold coil until the button is pushed again or the throttle switch is activated indicating you pushed down on the gas petal. When the throttle switch is activated, the unit goes into a standby mode indicated by a blinking red LED on the push button and will close the brake again once you return to idle.
2nd and 3rd gen units will also automatically cycle the butterfly twice on startup to keep it free of carbon.
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
Very interesting and quite ingenious setup. I will keep this information in mind if I ever get my hands on a US gear exhaust brake, as I likely won't go full-auto w/ its box and all. Instead I will probably use a pair of relays (a 70amp and a 30 amp, in a Crown Vic ABS relay box), and make the smaller relay self-latching. Put a momentary switch on dash, push it in and count to 3 and release - the pull solenoid should have done its thing, and the hold solenoid relay is latched on. To disengage the hold solenoid, wire in the idle validation switch between main power and relay pull coil power - throttle on breaks continuity and relay unlatches. And the back pressure switch will definitely be used as well, it's a great tool to have available.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
The pressure indicator part sounds pretty useful. I would definitely use it. Nothing like having extra lights, gauges, bells, whistles, and alarms to keep you awake while driving. 
Jaluhn, the attachment did not work.
Jaluhn, the attachment did not work.
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
A pretty chatterbox female companion achieves the same effect. With the added benefit of an extra pair of eyes on the road. lolNothing like having extra lights, gauges, bells, whistles, and alarms to keep you awake while driving.
And no, attachment didn't go thru for me either. I was just going by his explanation of the wiring - it's good enough for me to visualize it, that's all I needed.
Wow thats a great explanation of how this thing works. I beleive my unit must be first generation because I would manually cycle it ot clear soot on start-up. It hasn't operated for a year ,I wonder how much soot is in there now!I may just go the route of sending the unit to you if it unplugs easily. I pulled the cover yesterday,the battery is really small,slightly smaller than a dime.---Rob
jaluhn83
Full Access Member
Only problem is that the driver's eye are *not* on the road.....
Looks like the PDF files are too big to attach, but I can e-mail them if anyone wants.
The low pressure light is pretty useless IMHO - it's pretty easy to feel that you have less braking and you already know that lower rpm = less braking. I also seem to recall that there were frequent problems with the sensor clogging.
LCAM, that would probably work. Just make sure not to leave the pull in coil on too long - I'm sure it'll burn out real quick if you go too long.
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
Minor details on the co-pilot, minor details.Only problem is that the driver's eye are *not* on the road.....
Looks like the PDF files are too big to attach, but I can e-mail them if anyone wants.
The low pressure light is pretty useless IMHO - it's pretty easy to feel that you have less braking and you already know that lower rpm = less braking. I also seem to recall that there were frequent problems with the sensor clogging.
LCAM, that would probably work. Just make sure not to leave the pull in coil on too long - I'm sure it'll burn out real quick if you go too long.
Besides, you gotta have something to look at while running along them semi-deserted interstates in the middle of night, else it gets real boring real quick.So the sensor is like a tach on a stick shift or a C6, useful to have but once you get accustomed to the feel not entirely needed... Less wiring then, good for my sanity!
Nah, it will be just a quick 1-2 or a 1-2-3 count, kinda like double-clutching or shifting a lazy auxiliary. Momentary switch is mandatory for that tho, as tempting as the push-pull 2-spd rear switch may be to put on the shifter... And I'll take a PDF file please if you don't mind, I'll PM you me e-mailz later tonight.
If you'd like, you can E-mail them to me and I can put them up on my webspace and post a link here, so anyone who wants can take a look without you having to send a bunch of E-mails
My E-mail is warden145 at comcast dot net.
Gonna hijack this posting. Sorry about it but........
Don't have the exhaust brake, but do have the OD/UD GV. What I need is one of the switches that goes on the GV unit. The top one is broken off, but still screwed into the unit. ASny body have one or know where to get one?
Don't have the exhaust brake, but do have the OD/UD GV. What I need is one of the switches that goes on the GV unit. The top one is broken off, but still screwed into the unit. ASny body have one or know where to get one?
