i dont get the idea here...everyones says leave it alone and "give it hell" giving it hell on anything is gonna sacrifice reliability...how much is 1/8 turn reaaly gonna make...i'm getting the assumption that this engine is a giant pile of ****. if you cant turn the pump up for just a few more horses than how is this thing holding up stock? does anyone have any pics on what to do...n-e-one have a site for turning it up? and if turned up, what usually breaks/goes wrong?dieseldummy said:
turning up the pump
- Thread starter holtzer1
- Start date
I don't know what its gonna take to spell it out to you......But I am going to try it again. These motors in their stock form is already at the edge of their performance envelope. There is not much more you can do to it before it turn around and bites you HARD. What's it known to do? For one, overheating and cracking cylinder heads. Secondly, seizing up a bottom end. If you cana livie with that possibility, then by all means turn the screw up and bump up the timing. You say the word, and I'll hyperlink you to a website that will show you with pictures how to do it. But if you blow up the motor, don't come crying asking " what the hell happened".
Irregardless, on whether or not you do mess with the feul screw, you will need to put in a pyro, a water temp gauge, and a oil pressure gauge. And I am not talking about the cheap ones you find at the Kragen's or Autozone. Until recently, I was responsible for babysitting a fleet of towtrucks originally equiped with 6.2's and later converted to 6.5TD's. Left alone in stock settings, it took the drivers at least two years to blow up a 6.2 . It took them one year to blow up a small block. If it wasn't for the fact the Gov't auction supply of 6.2's are drying up, there still be 6.2's in the trucks. Its cheap power. 6.5td's with the late model cooling mods held up longer in the trucks but still suffer from cracking heads in a overheat.
If this truck is trully a commuter to get you through your current financial crisis, then put in the gauges, change the oil and drive it like you stole it. There is no resale in these diesel 'burbs, and anything you do to it you will be throwing money away. The choice is yours at this juncture...where do you want to go?
Irregardless, on whether or not you do mess with the feul screw, you will need to put in a pyro, a water temp gauge, and a oil pressure gauge. And I am not talking about the cheap ones you find at the Kragen's or Autozone. Until recently, I was responsible for babysitting a fleet of towtrucks originally equiped with 6.2's and later converted to 6.5TD's. Left alone in stock settings, it took the drivers at least two years to blow up a 6.2 . It took them one year to blow up a small block. If it wasn't for the fact the Gov't auction supply of 6.2's are drying up, there still be 6.2's in the trucks. Its cheap power. 6.5td's with the late model cooling mods held up longer in the trucks but still suffer from cracking heads in a overheat.
If this truck is trully a commuter to get you through your current financial crisis, then put in the gauges, change the oil and drive it like you stole it. There is no resale in these diesel 'burbs, and anything you do to it you will be throwing money away. The choice is yours at this juncture...where do you want to go?
how much reliability is sacrifised...if i turn it maybe 1/16 of a turn..just to squeeze a little more hp out of it. like i said..i'm not expecting power like my cummins had...no where near it, just a little more. if i do turn the screw..i mean is the lower end just gonna rocket out of it in a day or two...
ok...i see what your saying about fleet trucks..but honestly i've seen these types of drivers in action. its not their truck, they run the **** out of them, they dont have to foot the bill to fix them. as for resale...thats not even considered cuz when or if this thing goes its gonna be turned into a mud truck. heres the reason i'm looking for a little performance...i drive 60 miles one way to work...every hill i go up it downshifts and screams like hell...that cant be any worse than turning it up and being able to go up hills without downshifting non-stop. i'm not planning on towing any trailers with it...or truck pulls or racing..nothing like that..go ahead and send me the link...i'll at least look at it and see if its something i wanna do...and if i do it..i can always turn it back to stock setting.
i got no idea what your position is at the dealership, but if I could look into a crystal ball and tell you when your motor is going to puke, I wouldn't be hereholtzer1 said:
Really. I don't know your driving habits, so there is no way I can tell how long this motor will last. If it dies before a "projected" date, I'm the bad guy, if it lasts past the projected date, guess what...I'm the bad guy again. Can you tell I have been working fleet way too long? i copied this one too so that when the motor scatters we'll have something to refer to. What bothers me is that you have no way to tell if you are going near or passing the point of no return due to the fact you haven't put on the gauges. But here's the linky.....keep in mind this is written from a Ford perspective but both chev and Ford IDI's use the same stadyne DB2 series pump. (POKE HERE) knock yourself out. Remember, you've been warned.holtzer1 said:
i'm a technition at the dealership..what i'm referring to when i ask...dependability...is this, i know on a cummins...you can get an easy 500k out of them with proper maintenance, i've seen a 12 valve cummins with 897k on the odo...and it was in for a p/s pump, the guy said he wont get out of it till it hits 1 million miles. i'm not holding anyone responsible for this engine...as a tech myself i dont know how long it will last...but what is the average life expectancy..thats what i should have said in the first place, i'm not here for a grudge match..by no means, i'm getting gauges..without a doubt...and one more thing that keeps getting ignorred...how much hp will this increase..ballpark..and what about the 700r4...are they any good? thanx for the link...i'll at least check t out b4 i do anything.towcat said:i got no idea what your position is at the dealership, but if I could look into a crystal ball and tell you when your motor is going to puke, I wouldn't be here
i copied this one too so that when the motor scatters we'll have something to refer to. What bothers me is that you have no way to tell if you are going near or passing the point of no return due to the fact you haven't put on the gauges. But here's the linky.....keep in mind this is written from a Ford perspective but both chev and Ford IDI's use the same stadyne DB2 series pump. (POKE HERE) knock yourself out. Remember, you've been warned.
dieseldummy
Lost in time
I don't really know anyone who dyno's 6.2/6.5's so your guess is as good as anyone elses as to what HP it will gain you. To many variables like if the pump has been played with, timing different, ect. I hear alot of bad things about the 700r4 tranny and a lot of good. I think it all depends on who built it and for what application. Apparently straight from GM there is alot to be desired and alot of aftermarket places don't take into account low RPM diesel torque. The high RPM's you mentioned while climbing hills is probably better for the tranny than lugging it at lower rpm's. I don't know if this applies to the 700r4 but I think it does, there is a kickdown cable on the side of the IP that needs to be adjusted correctly to keep it from burning up. I have always used the method of taking the top cover off to "turn up" the fuel rate on my DB-2 pump, IMHO it's much easier to get at then the side cover down in the valley. If you choose this route just make sure to get the shut off selenoid back right to avoid a runaway. I always say give her hell, just a bad habit I guess.
dieseldummy
Lost in time
I'd say it would probably be noticed unless it has already been done at some point. If it has then you'll just blow more black smoke without much gain.
Macguyver82
DINSTAAR
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Holtzer1,
I think Towcat spelled it out perfectly a few posts ago. You wanna play? you're gonna pay. Turning up pump = more fuel = more power = more stress on things. This includes the transmission too, the TH700R4 is a good but weak unit that's overtaxed behind even a stock diesel. If you really want more power, start off by getting more air in and out of the engine. Exhaust is a good place to start. Pull off the intake muffler too. Don't add fuel until you add the air to support it.
If you *need* to depend on this truck to take you to work, leave it the hell alone and treat it right. Older 6.2/6.5s just can't put out the power you're used to from a Cummins just by turning a screw. If it's not fast enough, sell it and buy a Camaro or Mustang!
Best luck,
I think Towcat spelled it out perfectly a few posts ago. You wanna play? you're gonna pay. Turning up pump = more fuel = more power = more stress on things. This includes the transmission too, the TH700R4 is a good but weak unit that's overtaxed behind even a stock diesel. If you really want more power, start off by getting more air in and out of the engine. Exhaust is a good place to start. Pull off the intake muffler too. Don't add fuel until you add the air to support it.
If you *need* to depend on this truck to take you to work, leave it the hell alone and treat it right. Older 6.2/6.5s just can't put out the power you're used to from a Cummins just by turning a screw. If it's not fast enough, sell it and buy a Camaro or Mustang!
Best luck,
