You have to remove them so the y will seat against the manifold. They are replaced with bolts, the studs go in the y for the crossover.
Turbo install
- Thread starter Runningaford
- Start date
You have to remove them so the y will seat against the manifold. They are replaced with bolts, the studs go in the y for the crossover.
sjwelds
Full Access Member
Yes, there is a tab / ear on the ZF-5 that will need to be trimmed to fit. It's aluminum, and a Sawzall makes quick work of it.
Good luck. Been there.
Good luck. Been there.
gnathv
Full Access Member
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Runningaford
Registered User
I'm having a real bear of a time getting those studs out. I've been spraying them with PB throughout the day, and will I guess let it soak in, and try again tomorrow. What I've been doing is just tightening two bolts against each other, but continually they just back off....... is there a better way?
Right now, and I don't want to do it, but if it's still a bear tomorrow, then I'm thinking about just welding the nut on the stud.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
That's what I would do. And even throw a little heat to the Manifold around it.
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those studs, if factory should have a hex on them. If not you dont need to remove them.
The Y hits the hex and keeps it from seating
The Y hits the hex and keeps it from seating
Runningaford
Registered User
Ok sorry for the mis info, they must have been changed.
sjwelds
Full Access Member
Check again to make sure they don't have the hex. Mine did, and as Russ says, the y-pipe will hit the hex before it seals against the "ball" of the manifold. And yes, if in fact yours are round, then no changing needed 
The two cast pieces were still together when I sold it unless Matt separated them. They were like that when I got it so I never split them. I just fed the assembly down the back of my engine and bolted it to the passenger manifold then the cross over pipe.
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Runningaford
Registered User
No haven't split them, but will need to bend a little more sheet metal to get that assembly down; just tried, and it was getting hung up.
What I'm confused on right now, is the hard oil supply line for the turbo. it has two female olives on it. I removed the oil sending unit which has a male end that was threaded into the hex head base; female of course. Do I need to buy a brass adapter(like a male close nipple?) to connect the hex to the oil supply line, or does the hex come out, and the oil supply line goes down below....... if that's the case, how do you tighten it down, there's no room for a wrench?
What I'm confused on right now, is the hard oil supply line for the turbo. it has two female olives on it. I removed the oil sending unit which has a male end that was threaded into the hex head base; female of course. Do I need to buy a brass adapter(like a male close nipple?) to connect the hex to the oil supply line, or does the hex come out, and the oil supply line goes down below....... if that's the case, how do you tighten it down, there's no room for a wrench?
sjwelds
Full Access Member
On mine the oil supply line ran down to an elbow that screws into the driver's side of the engine down at the oil galley. 1/8" pipe plug IIRC. Yours may be different. I left the oil pressure sender in place and undisturbed.
I am sorry, I believe I might have missed a fitting that went in the top of the hex to make it a male fitting to fit on the hard oil feed line.
I don't know if you could use a standard hardware store fitting or if it is specific to the kit. Let me know I can reimburse since I missed it.
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I don't know if you could use a standard hardware store fitting or if it is specific to the kit. Let me know I can reimburse since I missed it.
Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
